Bugaboos - Conditions and Weather

[Climzalot]

Anyone have any first or second hand info on how things have been up there? Any recommendations on places to get current info on the web. I check cbc.ca for weather but I am sure there is a better spot. Any help and or info is greatly appreciated.

 

cgentzel@aai.cc

[Dru]

try not posting the same topic to 2 different forums silly!!!

[Matt_Alford]

Spent four days up there in the middle of July. Hot, Hot, Hot. Had great weather for 3 days of climbing. Snow conditions were soft and crampons were not needed, even for 3-4 am starts.

The Snowpatch-Bugaboo col was in good shape and didn't present and issues. However, a sizable shrund was beginnng to open about half way up the steep ramp to the col and I imagine that it would be significant by now.

Route condintions were good then, the W. ridge of Piegon had a little veriglass, but it did not present a problem. Cain route on Bug had large snowfielg over class III terrain down low but could be largely avoided. NE Ridge of Bug was snow/ice free and focken awesome!!! New favorite alpine rock route-you need to motor on it though if you don't want to spend the night up there with a lightning storm. I feel fairly competent and knew the descent and spent 14 hours hut to hut. Two parties the had unplanned bivies the previous night. I recommend a 2-3 am start from the hut so you can be at the base the route at first light.

Many parties go unroped throughout the Bugs, but the Snowpatch-Bug col calls for one-especially in icey conditions as they are likely to be now.

Hope this help-have lots o fun!

Cheers