[TR] Black Peak- NE Ridge 7/18/2004

[mkunnen]

Climb: Black Peak-NE Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/18/2004

 

Trip Report:

Left Seattle early Saturday, got to Rainy pass around 11:30, made it to Wing Lake by about 3:00. Lake is still mostly frozen but campsites have melted out, bugs were pretty bad. Took about 45 minutes to get up to the start of the climb the next morning, the air temp was in the 70's and the snow was very soft, we brought crampons to camp but didn't take or need them on the climb. Simul climbed the 4th class pitches, rock was a bit loose in places but not scary, used a 30m rope which worked well. When we moved onto the ridge proper the climbing was more exposed but didn't feel significantly more difficult. The traverse across to the summit on the right side of the ridge goes quickly. From camp to summit in about 5 hrs including several breaks for snacks and photos. The looseness of the rock in the gullies on the descent bothered us a lot more than anything on the climb itself. Had a great trip, in an excellent area had a similar feel to Mt. Tompson, East Wilmans Spire and Vesper Peak. Took about and 1 hr back to camp and 2 1/2 to the car.

 

Gear Notes:

Snow was soft and didn't need crampons, had rock shoes and didn't use, 30 meter rope is a good suggestion because most pitches are short, a tent would have been nice with the bugs.

 

Approach Notes:

Approach is straightforward, no snow on trail, stay high when crossing boulder field below Heather pass.

Edited July 21, 2004 by mkunnen

[Alpinfox]

 

Nice TR.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Advice: Edit your post and put a return in between your pictures.

[mkunnen]

Thanks for the editing advice.

 

MK