[TR] Liberty Bell/North Early Winter Spire- LB: nw face/NEWS: w face & nw corner 7/17/2004

[John Frieh]

Climb: Liberty Bell/North Early Winter Spire-LB: nw face/NEWS: w face & nw corner

 

Date of Climb: 7/17/2004

 

Trip Report:

Brock, Mackenzie and I climbed first the w. face of NEWS, followed by the nw corner of NEWS and finally the NW face of LB. Employing the use of 70 m half ropes we were able to link a number of pitches in a single lead:

 

For the w. face of NEWS we linked:

- 1 and 2 (easily done with a 60 m)

- 3, 4 and 5 (with a 60 m one might be able to reproduce this though it would be close… at least 3 and 4 with a 60 m)

- 6 and 7 (unlikely to link with a 60 m though I expect most will free solo 7 as it goes at 5.0).

 

For the nw corner of NEWS we linked:

- 1 and 2 again (nw corner shares first pitch with w. face)

- we did not link pitch 3 to anything

- ran 4 and 5 together (barely… not recommended due to rope drag issues; I think linking 3 and 4 would be better)

 

For the NW face of LB we linked:

- 1 and 2 (unlikely with a 60 m)

- 3 and most of 4 (3 is almost 60 m on its own)

 

Misc:

- simul seconded all pitches using a reverso

- Brock and McKenzie's first time on all 3 routes! w00t!

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

LB nw face: gear to 3ish"

NEWS w face: gear to 3ish"

NEWS nw corner: gear to 4ish" (Mac placed his 4.5 camalot for the first time!)

 

Approach Notes:

Mosquitoes!

[fourteenfour]

excellent beta