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Bugaboo shoe, what to do?


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I'll probably be heading to the Bugs late August and was wondering what you found was a good boot/shoe and crampon system to keep things light (specificly for the Bugaboos). Since it's August the snow should be pretty hard and I was thinking of just bringing approach shoes and aluminum crampons. Do you think that system would be to flimsy for approaches from the hut?

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This is what we used when we were there. I had some lightweight goretex salamons with aluminum crampons and they worked great. If you are decsening from Snowpatch, Howser or Pigeon be sure to use the new 25m raps to the left of the icefall. This way is faster than descending through snowpatch - bugaboo col.

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I'll probably be heading to the Bugs late August and was wondering what you found was a good boot/shoe and crampon system to keep things light (specificly for the Bugaboos). Since it's August the snow should be pretty hard and I was thinking of just bringing approach shoes and aluminum crampons. Do you think that system would be to flimsy for approaches from the hut?

that will work fine. the only thing to consider is that it will be tougher on the occasional steep stuff to keep your calfs from burning up. also, if you are going to haul lots of stuff up on your approach day, you might consider a sturdier boot to make it easier on your ankles, etc. and then use the sturdier boot for approaches. i never minded having my old La Sportiva boots along, and only had to carry them on NE Ridge of Bugaboo spire (easier climbing). check the descents for your planned routes....few of the regular routes in the bugs require you to carry your boots over, so, no penalty for bring a moderately stout pair of boots...because you are alway wearing them. Aluminum or light steel crampons are FINE.

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