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first descent [TR] Degenhardt - Degenhardt Glacier 6/28/2004

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Climb: Degenhardt -Degenhardt Glacier


Date of Climb: 6/28/2004


Trip Report:

Sky and myself climbed and skied the Degenhardt Glacier along with a couple other lines in the southern Pickets on Monday 6/28.

After suicidal avalanche conditions forced a turn around last week, plans were quickly made for a return trip to the southern Pickets. Sky and I left Seattle Sunday morning and were at the Goodell Creek group camp mid morning. We left the car shortly after 11.

Good trail leads to ~ 1/2 mile short of Terror Creek. There we followed climbers path(s) to a log crossing at Terror Creek at 2,100'. On the north side of the creek we were able to follow a faint climbers path nearly to the top of the ridge. The previous week we spent many hours schwacking around on the lower areas of the ridge and dealing with many cliffy areas. This time though we found the path that trends up a gully near the log crossing. This way was waaaay easier.

We topped out on the ridge near 3700' and made our way up to ~5400' where we made camp. Total time to camp: 7+ hours.

Sunday we climbed to the pass near the Chopping Block and skied down into Crescent Creek basin. We traveresed the basin to near the bottom of the couloir that leads up to West Terror Col (Terror-Rake Col).

Climbed nearly 800' to the col. We had been advised that this may not be the best way to get down into MacMillan Cirque as the slope on the North side of the col may be super steep. Upon reaching the col and peering over the north side we did find a steep slope, but one that was skiable. The first several hundred feet were real steep and then the angle eased back some and it was super cruiser. We skied down for nearly 2000' until we could traverse below the North Buttress of Mt Terror.

At ~5400' we put skis back on the packs and roped up as we accessed the Degenhardt Glacier. We daddled around for a little trying to find a way up through the icefalls in the lower sections of the glacier, and eventually ended up climbing pretty much directly through after Sky found a little hidden line up through some ice blocks. The angle eases some in the middle sections of the glacier before coming to a steep 1500' headwall. there were some large crevasses but none that blocked the route completely. We climbed the steep headwall on the eastern portion.

We topped out on the col between Degenhardt and the Pyramid. The ski down was spectacular. Conditions were ideal and the setting amazing. We skied our climbing line on the eastern side of the glacier and down to the icefall.

At the icefall the ski line was blocked and we rapped ~100' down the icefall. From there we traversed back below the North Buttress of Terror and climbed the 2000' back up to the Terror Rake Col.

We skied the couloir back down the south side of the col into Crescent Creek basin and bivvied just beyond the mouth of the couloir.

Tuesday we had a leisurely morning and hiked back out the way we came.

I've got some pics, but my camera went tits up on me during the trip, Sky should have some pics up on his site soon.


Gear Notes:

30m rope

30m cord


used em for the rap


Approach Notes:

Goodell Creek

Follow the climbers paths and it's not too bad...miss the paths and it can be heinous

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Sky's pics looked sick. That little chute you guys skied to get to the Degenhardt looked cooler than Degenhardt proper. thumbs_up.gif

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Here's a route photo...


This photo is from a few weeks earlier last year. The Degenhardt was in better condition up high for the ski, but worse condition on the lower portions. We had to rappel (well, coulda downclimbed) approximately where blue meets purple.


Paul, the Degenhardt was definitely the coolest. Unless by cool you mean stupid steep, then skiing off the col was no doubt the coolest.

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