Problems with MRNP reservation system

[mr.radon]

Alright I'm really cheezed off today, this is NOT spray but a valid gripe. Maybe others have experienced this.

I'm planning a trip on Rainier this weekend with a few novice friends from work, climbing the Emmons Glacier route. I admit I waited too long to FAX in the pre-registration form but that was due to the Rangers giving mis-information earlier. When jdog and I ski'd the Fuhrer Finger Route on Easter I stopped by to ask about registration thinking I could do it right then and there. First I was under the old assumption that there were two classes of climbing permits, single use and 12 month pass (from date of purchase). The Ranger at Longmire tells me if I get the 12 month pass I can't use it to register till I get it in the mail, otherwise I have to pay twice. This seemed stupid and I didn't register. I wrote Gator about this but never got a reply. Finally I decided to just bite the bullet and send the form in by FAX. First the park service had the FAX machine off, then several phone calls later I had the info FAX'ed to them. The ranger that day informed me that there were no more reserved camp spots for the last night (Sat 6/26/04) it was already 60% full. However, he did say that 40% of the sites are reserved for walk-in's. After asking I found out I could register a day before the start of the climb. Then I had him tell me exactly how many walk-in spots were available for each camp: Shurman, Emmons Flats, Camp Curtis, Glacier Basin. Plenty to get a team of six in for any day we wanted.

Fine, today I get up real early (our trip starts tomorrow) and drive to the ranger station. I'm the first one to registration for a climb this morning. Lord and behold Camp Shurman is full for 6-26 and Emmons Flats is full for 6/25. I ask the ranger to please double check. The ranger lady says this must be a mistake? She shows me the display and they have given advance reservations for ALL the camp spots at Camp Shurman on 6-26 and ALL the camp spots at Emmons Flats on 6/25!!! So my itinerary is Glacier Basin tomorrow night then Shurman then Emmons Flats; this is dumb. She had no explanation for this, I'm really suspicious. I didn't hassle her but just questioned what is going on with the Park Service this year. I was told several months ago there were spots at all camp sites, and they would be held for walk-ins. I was the first walk-in to register for a Saturday and Sunday climb on the Emmons PERIOD. Each entry at the sites were designated as advanced reservations. All camp site had more then 60% reserved.

I was also informed that MRNP only has one type of permit now, yearly. But it lasts for the calendar year no matter when you buy it. Another rip-off. What if I want to climb in the winter? Then I got to buy one in the month of December and then in January??? On the plus side they give the permit to you right away, no waiting in the mail. However, if you self register they still have to mail it to you.

Anyway, the ranger lady this morning was the first of three different rangers that answered all my questions and corrected several misconceptions I had been given by the previous two rangers; who were all hosed up. I'd be interested to find out why the park service reserved all the camp sites in advance. This is not acceptable, either can the reservation system or run it correctly. I'm sure with the fancy software package they have it would be easy to make the system " RANGER " proof.

Anyone else get jerked around this year?

[Winter]

I signed up for the annual permit on April 8 and STILL haven't gotten it in the mail.

[assmonkey]

I faxed in reservations early last week for a MRNP trip in July, and got the confirmation letter and needed summit passes last Saturday.

 

No problemo. In fact, I was impressed with the speed and accuracy of the confirmation.

 

- a s s m * n k e y

[Harm]

I found out a couple of years ago that there abuse of the system is quite prevalant. I think you get 5 days in any given "climbing zone" such as Muir, Shurman or Liberty Ridge. Some folks would go down to the ranger station on a tuesday to get "walk-up" and take camp spots tues, wed, thurs,fri and sat night. Then they'd drive back to seattle for the week and return for their trip on Friday morning.

 

One such example I witnessed two summers ago was that it was a thursday night and there were supposedly near capacity numbers booked at both Shurman and Emmons Flats yet it was a ghosttown. The system is severely bent if not broken.

[ryland_moore]

We did the preregistration thing for Emmons/Sherman two weeks ago for this weekend at Sherman and the rangers were very helpful. Sorry you've been given the run-around. See ya up there on the mountain!

[Mike_Gauthier]

PM's on this BB aren’t an effective of way of communicating with me about NPS related issues. I do not use this account for that purpose, and rarely check it. I'm sorry you didn't get a quick response, I get lots of email questions, and I can't always respond as much as I'd like.

 

The current reservation system does reserve up to 60%; and leaves 40% for walk up. What happens is that people “walk up” and register on Monday/Tuesday/Wed and spend more than a few nights at high camp. More than likely, the 40% available for walk up gets taken by other climbers a few days ahead of you, who are already/still on the mountain.

 

You mentioned getting your reservation request in late. It's important to get requests in early, especially if you want to climb a popular route on a weekend.

 

Regarding the calendar year permit, that change went into effect last year. Basically, every pass is an annual pass, so it pays to get them early and climb throughout the year.

 

Self registration during the off season is a convenience for climbers (backpackers can’t self register), but it requires that passes be mailed. It's not a perfect system, and is administratively burdensome, but it is also a service that we want to provide b/c it allows you to climb more easily without registering “in person” during the off season (i.e. fall, winter spring, roughly, most climbers like to self register during this time of year.) Of course, if you want, you can register in person, but it has to be during office hours.

 

The number of reservation permeations are immense: where to get permits; where to register; camps available, all the other climbers that want the same thing; when will climbers want to register; sending out climbing passes; NPS fee accountability (lot’s of guidelines/regs); and the other unique requests that we receive (and climbers often have unique requests). What I'm getting at is that we'll do what we can to get you registered and on your way. It has been a very busy spring. We are genuinely working with climbers to mitigate any bureaucratic quagmires. I personally apologize for the inconveniences. What's important is that you have a safe and enjoyable climb, while leaving no trace.

 

Take care,

 

Mike

[mr.radon]

Mike, I have no problem with the lack of a reply from you. I figured your time is limited and I had a question which any ranger could answer.

About yesterday:

The ranger and I looked at the computer screen. Each party at Camp Shurman was marked with an ®. The ranger informed me this means it is reserved in advance and not a walk up. Emmons Flats had one walk up party, the rest were all by reservation.

I like the computer system you have now, it seems to be a much better system then the old schedual book. But I felt someone has not been following the rules.

Other then this trip (dog route) I feel the park service does a great job managing the park's climbers. I'm used to getting on the rarely climbed routes and never having to worry about the crowds. And then it's just two of us not six. I also happen to dislike red tape, but see the need for it. I just wish it would apply to everyone but ME. :-)

I'll leave no trace except for the Jiffy pop the Schuman rangers are getting from me. Think the rangers at Schuramn will prefer Foster's or Guinness Stout?

Are they allowed to drink on duty?

[dmuja]

If the park service would only quit hiring such HOT as in HOT! ranger babes maybe the climbers wouldn't hang out at high camp so much...

 

gerrr..