Don_Serl Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 (edited) Climb: Randy Stoltmann Tower (Mt Athelstan)-Solstice Start to Lillarete Date of Climb: 6/20/2004 Trip Report: Janes Ales, Jia Condon, Don Serl; June 20, 2004 Reference: Alpine Select: pp234-236 (approach pp70-71) Online Reference: http://www.bivouac.com/TripPg.asp?TripId=3988 Executive summary: An ascent, with a 7 pitch variation start, of a long rock ridge 80km northwest of Pemberton. The climb: The initial few pitches of Lillarete looked a bit dank, and the open arete to its right looked climbable and inviting, so we headed for that, thinking we might even have a chance of doing the entire arete, all the way to the Gnomon. In the event, starting from the extreme right lower corner of the buttress, we found cracks and face climbing to about 5.8 on and left of the arete for 6 pitches (somewhat sparse protection) to a blank upper section. Here we traversed an easy, obvious ledge 20m left to join the original line a pitch and a half or so below the big angling crack. At the traverse on the north side of the Gnomon, we crossed snow horizontally just under 60m, then continued traversing on an easy rock/boulder bench about another 100m. This was a mistake, and led to the need to climb thru 30m of very badly shattered rock before being able to traverse back right into better rock and a low-angled snow patch to gain the ridge just at the point at which it begins to make its final rise towards Stoltmann Tower. The description in Alpine Select reads as if there are 4 pitches plus 5 pitches on the upper tower to gain the top, but there are just 5 from this point. We stayed on or close to the crest until the final two leads, where the natural line takes one rightward, with belays back on the crest. The descent: The rappel from the summit is in good shape, with a solid blade and a solid double-slung block. Most of the loose rock at the stance has been cleared. Rap 15m to a notch, climb out of the notch still on rappel, and rap a further 6m-8m to the second rappel stance. This has a good blade and a somewhat dubious jammed block. This rappel is awkward: diagonally left (facing in) to start, then slowly back rightward on the lower crest – pay close attention to re-placing your rope over edges above as you descent, so as to eliminate surprise flips and to keep the pull clean and direct. There is a good hex and block anchor at the col, and we rapped into the northwest-facing snow-gully rather than climbing the rather shattered looking rock onward to the glacier rim. Steep, soft snow (facing in for 150m), then easy glissading led back to the bivy. Timing: Alarm 3 a.m.; away 4; at base 4:30; climbing 5; summit 5:20; finish raps 6:30; bivy 7 p.m. We swapped leads throughout, and weren’t always able to simul-second full pitches, so we probably took 1 ½ – 2 hours more as a threesome than as a pair. Overall impressions and comments: The route is a lot bigger and more serious than the relatively moderate technical grade makes it sound, and it felt to me like a sandbag at “D” overall. It is pretty serious: there is quite a lot of loose rock in threatening positions (although a lot less now, as I make it a habit to chuck as much as I quickly and safely can in passing). The route-finding crux, up the 5.8 face to the right at the top of the long diagonal crack, protected well with a blade and baby angle up and right of the start, but was otherwise runout. Out technical crux was a short, steep 5.10 wall immediately left of a chimney to gain the face on which the diagonal crack lies, but there must be an easier alternative which we missed. Gear Notes: Due to a misunderstanding, our rack (5 nuts, 7 cams, and 7 pins) was leaner than desirable, but one does need anything close to the huge rack described in bivouac.com – ten or a dozen nuts (RPs not necessary), about 10 cams (to #2 Camalot), and 2 long blades, 2 Lost Arrows, and a baby angle are fine. Take an alpine hammer; crampons are not necessary in soft, early-season snow conditions. Approach Notes: Road approach note: Alpine Select says left/left/right on logging spur; there is a new side spur, so it’s now left/right/left/right. The lower section of the road (which is mostly pumice) is getting badly washed away, and won’t last till next year without some maintenance. Hiking approach note: There was not much snow in the approach gullies and the sun was very hot, so we walked up thru shady forest to the left. Decent going, minor undergrowth, pretty open. We bivvied about 150m higher than the site shown in A/S, on pumice at the very top of the second spur to the left of the fall-line from the route. There was plentiful water in a stream 10m north. 2 ½ hrs up. Descent to the road: We angled left (facing out) down the avvy chutes, glissading snow when we could and weaving thru and under bluffs on pumice before making a short alder-crash left and gaining forest on the south side of the avvy fan on the way out. Minor bush-bashing. 1 ¼ hrs down. Edited June 21, 2004 by Don_Serl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 i seem to recall a good pink tricam after climbing about 3 meters out from the belay at the top of the diagonal crack... and some rp tomfoolery, but no pins. whatever works good to hear the arete goes without bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinkyclimber Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 Hey, cool. From your description, I am glad we stuck with the line we did! I was feeling weak that weekend, although it was a great day thanks to Dru. It is nice to hear that the area is still visited (besides Dru!! ). And nice to see Randy's name out there in some form, just over a decade since his passing. Maybe one day the whole area will receive formal protection, rather than just a cool tower bearing his name. Too bad about the valley below though...it was certainly beautiful when I was last there. Oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 as far as i can tell the only difference between your recommended rack and my huge rack are #3 and #4 camalot, tri cams and rps. you would want the cams for the lower pitches of the line we took, and i had tricams and rps in where you had nothing after your pins on the crux, don... not to just to clarify. i always do end up taking lots of gear though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted June 23, 2004 Author Share Posted June 23, 2004 dru - re: rack; "huge" adjective withdrawn. following our "off-line" discussions, i'm now aware that your meaning of "1 ea" for nuts and cams implies NOT taking duplicates. adequate pro is fine anytime; substituting "courage in your rucksack" for mental toughness and reasoned confidence is not gonna get anyone anywhere, metaphysically speaking... good route, btw. deserves lots of traffic. saw another party (from whistler) climb moonraker while we were on lillarete, and there were fresh tire tracks on the logging spur, so there's some traffic in there. cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 i want to go back and climb the direct finish to standing wave who wants to go??? now damn it! i am drunk and motivated cause i just scarfed down the new caj. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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