spacely Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 (edited) moved to sunday night, the sat forecast doesn't look good. Looking for someone to go up hood. plan on meeting and leaving t-line 10-10:30 to beat the crowds. just thinking s side. pm me if interested. -Ted Edited June 10, 2004 by spacely Quote
upupandaway Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 I'd love to go, and am willing with more info. Specifically, what's the route's difficulty, what gear will you need/bring, how can I help? Quote
spacely Posted June 11, 2004 Author Posted June 11, 2004 the route is pretty much a hike with some 40-50 degree sections the last 800ft. Take a look in the Oregon Cascades discussion forum for some tr's and pictures. I don't rope up anymore after the 2002 accident. Just need ice axe / crampons / helmet. Quote
upupandaway Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 Are you planning the hogs back route? If your going without rope, I presume there's no gapers on that ridge? But what about the 'schrund toward the top? It looked wide open to me... Quote
gslater Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 Are you planning the hogs back route? If your going without rope, I presume there's no gapers on that ridge? But what about the 'schrund toward the top? It looked wide open to me... It's pretty wide open, and getting wider by the day. Much wider this year than last, but still easy to get around. Quote
upupandaway Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 I've not been on Hood, nor done a 'schrund or 40-50 dergee slope without rope/protection. Naturally, I'm a bit hesitant...any reassuring thoughts? Quote
dmuja Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 (edited) Unless you guys are certain of the route down to the details I might take a bit of rope and harnesses for the part between the top of the ski slope and the start of the hogs back. A guy fell into a crevasse this year somewhere below and right of Crater Rock (I think you *are* on a glacier there, although you might not know it). I went up solo a month earlier and never heard of crevasses on that part though I did spot some even further right at like 7-8,000 ft from the parking lot. Had I researched the route better I might have hesitated to go solo - though I do feel more macho now JMHO - Doug Edited June 11, 2004 by dmuja Quote
griz Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 I've not been on Hood, nor done a 'schrund or 40-50 dergee slope without rope/protection. Naturally, I'm a bit hesitant...any reassuring thoughts? Nope...I'm not saying his climbing style is right or wrong but if YOU don't feel comfortable with the way the person climbs then don't climb with him. Quote
Rainierwon Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 I've not been on Hood, nor done a 'schrund or 40-50 dergee slope without rope/protection. Naturally, I'm a bit hesitant...any reassuring thoughts? Dood. The 40-50 degree is more like 35-40+ maybe. It depends on who you talk to, but I would (and have many times) solo this. Dogs go up it sometimes. Just take cramps ice ax and defenitely a helmet. Truely the amount of traffic this route gets combined with good conditions it *can* be a walkup, but weather can change, and it seems that it will be windy after a front passes through, like sat, could be windy Sunday. I would not worry about going solo. Quote
dmuja Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 (edited) RW I defer to you and your experience, no doubt way more than mine, but 35-40 degrees? I know its not K2 but I'll try to post a photo here see attachment Doug Edited June 11, 2004 by dmuja Quote
dmiller Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 I've done that route twice, solo, and it was icy as well. The guide book: Selected Climbs in the Cascades mentions the route as being 35 degrees. I'd agree it's between 30-35 degrees. I wouldn't worry to much, just pay attention to footing and falling rock and ice kicked off by climbers above you. Quote
spacely Posted June 11, 2004 Author Posted June 11, 2004 I'd agree 50 degree may be a bit high. I remember a thread a year or so ago where someone claimed it was 60 degrees..... that it is definitely not. I've climbed it unroped 4 times and not felt the need to rope up. Saying that, probably 1/2 or so of the people climbing do rope up, but most do not place protection, which poses a risk of flossing those downhill from you should you fall and not be able to self arrest. It's best to climb how you feel safe. Going unroped with a stranger might not be best, but if you want to go I still plan on going, checking conditions along the way. Weather looks marginal at this time, something else to consider if you are driving from Tacoma. There is a nice window opening up later in the week. I hope to be on Rainier at that time. Quote
upupandaway Posted June 11, 2004 Posted June 11, 2004 Spacely, Just checked the weather. Indeed, looks less than favorable Sunday night. Especially for a dude driving from T-town. I'm ducking out of this one. But what about that high preassure beginning Mon night and lasting through Thursday? What Ranier route are you thinking of? Quote
spacely Posted June 11, 2004 Author Posted June 11, 2004 no problem... that's probably what I would do if I was driving from Tacoma. Long ways to go. The forecast keep changing. The Rainier climb is already set with some other folks, but if you have glacier skills should be no problem finding partner(s). This forum is a good place to find potential partners so keep checking. Quote
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