Middle and South Sister

[alexbaker]

I am planning an ascent of middle and south sister next week, approaching from pole creek. Anybody have advice on route selection? I will be climbing with beginners, but all are very fit capable people. thanks, hopefully i will have a good trip report with pics when im finished!

[gapertimmy]

Hey Alex-

Maybe a bit more info on the skills of those climbing would be helpful for providing beta. There are routes up both peaks that don't require any glacier travel, but are you looking to travel on glaciers... do the party members know how to hike/climb up steeper snow slopes?

 

The easiest route up South Sister is the southern climb from Devil's Lake TH. From Pole Creek, most folks would climb either the Prouty Glaicer route (steeeep snow and glacier travel, not advisable for beginers) or the Northern Ridge (I haven't done this climb so can't comment but it is more technical than the south side).

 

The SE Ridge of Middle Sister is pretty mellow, as is the North ridge via the Hayden glacier.

 

Don't underestimate either of the peaks, and the snowpack up high has recieved recent snowfall this week, so you should be comfortable diagnosing avalanche/terrain dangers.

 

Timmy

[alexbaker]

The people i will be with are avid rock climbers and skiers, however they have no experince in the backountry except for some extensive summer backpacking trips. All would be comfortable on fairly steep snow, but due to inexperience any route requiring ropetravel is out of the question. I am really looking for some good ridge routes, as none of these people have avalanche training either.

 

Here is what i had in mind:

Approaching from green lakes, climbing broken top, then continuing on to camp at chambers lakes the next night.

From there the N or NW ridge of South sister looks appealing, as does the SE ridge of middle sister. Anybody been there lately? Any thoughts? Thanks for all your help.

[DonnV]

Last July 4th I descended the SE Ridge of Middle and climbed the N Ridge of South. The SE Ridge of Middle would be a very straightforward non-technical climb and you can come right back down the same route. Note that the Thomas guide mentions that crevasses can come right up to the crest of the lower ridge, so don't venture too far to climber's right.

 

The N Ridge of the South Sister is 95% slogging up pumice or snow, but there is a buttress up high that you need to get around. It puts you onto an exposed slope for a while that is maybe as steep as 40 degrees. If your team is really comfortable on fairly steep snow, you won't have any problems, but it is exposed so you can't fall there. I've never done the NW Ridge, but the guidebook indicates it's entirely a slog. If you're going to carry gear up the South Peak and descend the south side, the NW Ridge might be less worrisome for beginners. And grabbing Broken Top on the way in sounds like a good plan! Have a good time.