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The schrund is melted out on the sides. We were able to gain the couloir by climbing up into the trough in the middle of the schrund. On 6/5/04, we experienced soft conditions due to the warm temps. Staying out of the center trough as much as possible, we avoided most of the sloughs coming down. Nice direct line up Colchuck.

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Bug, We exited left thru the cornice. The slabs on the right were significantly melted out, and when we peered down from the summit, we were glad we stayed left. You guys went to the right up the slabs? The snow was fairly soft all the way up with short melting ice steps due to the warm temps. We wrongly postulated that it would get colder near the summit.

Steve, The weather was generally overcast with little wind in the morning.

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