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Tahoma Glaicer conditions


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Does anyone have recent info on the Tahoma glaicer route - west side conditions. I will be taking a group up in a week and a half and am wondering if anybody here has been on the West side of Rainier this spring. There is nothing posted on the current climbing conditins at MORA site or under Mount Rainier at CC.com.


Thanks for any input


Ted in Cda

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Officially- no. I called the Longmire WIC and apparently no one has recently climbed to give a report, and no ranger patrols have been there this season. There is a team (Ted's?) that started up the route yesterday. Perhaps a conditions report will be available in the near future.

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some random notes from a tahoma glacier attempt.


I was in one of the groups up there late last week attempting tahoma glacier via the cleaver. We got to around 9000 ft and realized there was more mountain than some of us could climb in 4 days. We'd have been better off to plan it as a five day climb.


2 other groups got to about the same point and turned around as well. I think an RMI group made it thru the sickle via starting from the base of the glacier.


Conditions softened up quickly once the sun appeared and made traveling almost impractical by 1-2 pm. The recent snowfall is still consolidating.


One group tried to descend down onto the glacier from ~9200 ft but didn't like what they saw below and decided not to attempt it.


There was an avalanche release near the upper tahoma glacier ramp to the summit. The sickle appears to be in good shape.


The success formula seems to be to start and end early. Go left around st andrews rock and get a high camp around 11,000 ft. Then carryover. Maybe stopping 1 more night at point success.


another group from connecticut is up now, should be attempting the summit in a day or so.


Saw a lot of helicopters flying around Thurs/Fri, but didn't know about the liberty ridge situation. on Friday around 8-9 am, did see one helicopter fly from the north side carrying what looked to be a body. It was a sobering sight.

Edited by spacely
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