3 o'clock rock

[Smoker]

I finally got on "Total Soul" last weekend.

While we only got up 5 pitches before the monsoon hit us I thought that the route was sweet.

 

So I am wondering about a few things...

 

Did Matt and Dave put up the Superfly pitch?

I know that they are credited with the top 3 pitches.

 

Has anyone done the Superfly when it was not covered in mud and dirt? What time of year would be best? End of summer? It looked to me like most folks do the Anti-fly. I found the Superfly to be superhard. I am not certain why but I was not that impressed with the pitch, I would say that with the loose gravels,dirt and mud it climbed more like .11+ yeah the traverse moves left make you think before commiting but if the pitch is never climbed (or rarely) I doubt if it is ever an "enjoyable" lead.

 

What about the Anti-fly? Is it better or just easier?

 

And then what about the rounded shoulder to the left of the Total soul line and gully? Is it named? We climbed up through 4 anchors on the old buttonheads but while there was a sea of granite above we could see no line to continue. Does anyone know if there is a route that continues higher?

 

I am looking forward to returning and getting the entire route (Total Soul).

 

Matt and Dave, thanks for all the awesome anchors and hardware up there. You guys deserve a beer or three.

 

Smoker

[mattp]

Yes, we did put up the Superfly pitch. I have not seen it covered with mud, but the cedar needles are a mess and I suppose it could use some wire brushing. It is hard, but on a cool day it is not .11 plus. The Antifly is not just friction, like the Superfly, but involves a lieback and a few small edges. In my opinion, the best pitch on the route is the next one.

 

The buttress to the left has a couple of routes that join a few pitches up and I'm sure somebody has climbed more than 4 pitches but I can't vouch for this.

[Smoker]

I'm not sure why I didn't like the pitch. The "10+" moves them selves were not mud covered, just aaaalllll the moves up to the traverse. There is a small overlap/seep that cast mud/dirt onto the line in a expanding (route covering way).

 

Serious pucker factor on the traverse

 

Whats up with Smoots rating of 5.7 for the Rubber Soul pitch? (Old School?) It was by far the best pitch of the 4 I led.

 

Thanks Matt

 

I'll bring a brush next time and work it over proper!

 

S

[mattp]

Maybe I'll join you for some housecleaning -- it sounds like it needs it!

 

That rubber soul pitch was completely grown over with grass and blueberries in the seam, so pulling on all of that stuff it might have been "old skool" 5.7, but it fealt 5.7d and very scary to us! And there was an old belay/rappel station on a tree the thickness of Caveman's thumb -- we had it on display in Pro Mountain Sports for a while.

[SEF]

Hey smoker, sorry to hear the rain kept you off the final pitches. I met you Saturday after we rapped from Total Soul.

 

You definitly have to return. Both my partner and I felt the Anti-fly version of pitch (P5) and P6 and P7 were all excellent. A-F had some very fun laybacking up a dinner plate flake. P6 had some very nice friction with perfect pro. P7 had interesting overlaps/roofs to move up. They had a bit of loose surface grit, but should be better now.

 

We saw a party on that next buttress while we were on Total Soul, up an estimated 4 pitches. Would have been nice to have talked to them. Can't say what they climbed to get there.