[TR] Sky Pilot Mtn- West Butt 5/23/2004

[snoboy]

Climb: Sky Pilot Mtn-West Butt

 

Date of Climb: 5/23/2004

 

Trip Report:

I made it up this route a couple of years ago ( See TR ) after a couple of attempts, and had thought to myself that it would be the perfect first alpine outing for a newbie.

 

Well the long weekend was here, and my friends wanted to go do something. The original plans for a MTB ride had somehow dissolved, and I racked my brains for a good alternative. My first thought, Tricouni, was liable to be overrun with drunk snowmobilers, so I figured Sky Pilot would be a good alternate, and as the gate had recently opened, it would not be an epic slog.

 

The cast of characters:

 

 

[all photos courtesy of this ^ guy]

 

 

 

That's me, hiding from the paparazzi.

 

One of the washouts low on the Shannon Creek Branch:

 

 

A late start had us walking up the perfectly good, but innaccesible road in the hot afternoon sun. They say it was raining in WA that w/e.

 

We camped in a spot with a so-so view.

 

 

That's Habrich in the background for anyone who is wondering...

 

That evening I went looking for running water, and ended up kicking steps to the top of the bowl/base of the "Stadium Glacier." Just as well because it froze up pretty nicely that night.

 

Next morning we got a happy alpine start ("I'm in the alpine, I'm starting" - who said it??) and headed up here:

 

 

 

Last photo is a pic of the "fourth class step" mentioned in the guidebook. The only problem is that there is a 3rd class way around it just to the left, and it is marked in the wrong place in the photo topo.

 

[topo from Alpine Select, McLane, 2001]

 

We went the hard way because it was easier to manage the rope.

 

 

To make a long story short, we didn't go much further than this, but AGTWHBA, and I got a blister on the hike out...

 

Gear Notes:

50mx9mm, 3 cams, piolets

 

Approach Notes:

The Shannon Creek spur is getting less and less driveable each year. This is due to a combination of factors. The FS has actively dissuaded peeps from driving past 9km from Hwy 99, and last winters rains have been instrumental in making the lower part of the road a lot rougher. If you have a HC 4WD, you will still be able to get to the FS blockade at 9 km. The Unimog got us over the blockade, but now you are only able to drive to just past the point that the kids drove off the cliff 10 years ago (for those who know the road.)

 

The road is also gated in the winter (opened May 21 this year.)

[Dru]

so habrich looks dry

[snoboy]

Yes, it does... looked pretty good.

 

The Habrich Spur is not too aldery either.