How to Pass a Knot while Rappeling

[Guest]

 

Originally a question by rafael buried in another topic, I decided this info was worthy of a new post.

These ideas are my own. I have tested them thoroughly through the years. I have also read most every book on climbing knots and ropework and rescue I found on shop's shelves.

This is the fastest way I have experienced to pass a knot while rappeling, while being very safe.

Rig a rappel device on a biner on your harness. Do not spider-rig the rappel device; this would be a single length runner between the rappel device biner and your harness, don't do this. If rapping on a single line you will likely need to incorporate a second friction system on the line to devlop sufficient control while descending.

Rig an autoblock hitch above your rappel device. The tails should be fairly long, like 8" to 10". Do not use a klemheist hitch by mistake, and certainly don't use a prussik hitch or bachman hitch. Attach a biner through both tails of the autoblock hitch. The autoblock may be made with 9/16" tubular webbing, 6mm cord or 5mm cord.

Attach a long loop (4 foot approximately) of 6mm or 5mm cord to your harness; I recommend a girth hitch rather than using a biner. Now tie a mariner knot with this long loop to the autoblock biner.

Maker sure to tie the mariner knot as compactly as possible.

To finish the mariner knot it is typical to take a bight of both control strands of the cord and pass them between the two working strands. I suggest further securing by passing a bight of the remaining control strands through these previously formed bights, it's a crochet stitch for knitters or an electrician's coil or a slipped slip knot. Finally a biner clipped through the last pair of bights formed and also clipped through the terminal loop of the cordelette ( you should have nearly 2 feet of cordelette remaining after forming the mariner knot).

So you have your rappel device (likely a second friction system as well) and a hitch up-rope as a safety backup. The hitch is connected to your harness with a mariner knot.

Rappel down until your lowest friction device/system is within 1 foot of the knot joining the 2 ropes. Don't get much closer or you'll have a more difficult time de-rigging that friction device/system. Stop tending the autoblock hitch and allow it to grab the line as you continue to pass rope through your friction device.

Now you are hanging on the autoblock. Your lowest friction device/system should not be jammed into the joining knot.

Pull up 10 feet of rope and tie an eight-on-a-bight then clip that to your harness. This will be your backup safety as you are de-rigging your rappel device, it will be redundant to the autoblock.

De-rig your rappel device(s). Now rig them just below the joining knot. Then rig another hitch just below it, ultimately this will be your backup to the rappel device for the remainder of your rappel. The specific hitch is entirely your choice, I would prefer a prussik.

And now for the magic show.....

...but first a review of a few things

Your rappel device(s) rigged just rigth below the joining knot. A hitch rigged on the rope just below this (but not so close as to render them useless because they jam into the bottom of the rappel device before they bite the rope). And an eight-on-a-bight clipped into your harness.

Good? Solid!

Now remove the safety biner on the mariner knot. Smoothly pull the terminal bight of the cordelette to release the two slipped bights.

And now as you feed the cordelette into the mariner knot you are smoothly lowered off of the autoblock and onto your rappel device.

Now reach up for the autoblock biner and unclip one tail of the autoblock hitch, then pull the biner and the hitche's wraps will uncoil from the rope.

And you are free to continue on your descent (after you untie the eight-on-a-bight :-)

This is truly an elegant solution and the quickest way I've experienced to pass a knot, while remaining bomber safe.

To make this process much faster, but cutting some corners with safety:

Don't use the mariner knot, just tie an autoblock and attach to a biner on your harness. This must have long tails.

When you get to the joining knot, hang on the autoblock. Don't bother pulling up 10 feet of rope for the backup eight-on-a-bight, because your hitch will not slide past the joining knot.

De-rig the rappel device. Rig it just below the joining knot. Don't rig another hitch as backup to the rappel device.

You are still hanging on the autoblock above the joining knot and your rappel device is rigged below the joining knot.

To take your weight off the autoblock hitch here's an ultra-quick tip. Raise one leg and wrap the rope around the foot 2 times and bring the rope up to above the joining knot. One hand holds both strands (the strand of rope that is directly above the joining knot and the strand of rope that comes from the raised foot) as you step up on the raised leg, the other hand slides the autoblock hitch down to the holding hand.

Now the second hand grabs the rope just below the rappel device then the first hand lets go of both strands. Now wrap the rope 3 times around an upper thigh to lock off the rappel device. You are now hanging on the rappel device and the autoblock hitch is unweighted and positioned just a little bit above the joining knot.

Untie the autoblock and continue your rappel.

This variation is VERY fast.

David.

 

 

[David_Parker]

Got any photos or diagrams to go with that? DPP

[Guest]

I don't have any photos or diagrams, sorry. I practice these types of skills most every day I climb, that's the only way the information stays in resident memory for me. Oh, and I listen openly to each climbing partner I'm with; I learn most days I climb. Reading books hasn't hurt either.

Self-Rescue

By David J. Fasulo

a falcon guide

There's LOTS of groovy ideas in there! Page 50 has 4 diagrams that deal with this problem, diagrams really help to understand what's going on. My solution is similar to his, but in my experience mine is faster; and my FAST solution really cooks!

The biggest application of this knowledge in my climbing career is when a rope has been partially cut (cut by a falling rock or cut by an edge in a leader fall). I use a Butterfly knot to isolate the weakened section of rope, and I still have a full length rope to use for rappelling.... but I have to pass a knot while rappelling....

David.