[TR] Yosemite Valley- Various Crags 4/23/2004

[AaronB]

Climb: Yosemite Valley-Various Crags

 

Date of Climb: 4/23/2004

 

Trip Report:

The trip was pretty last minute. I decided to go and just went. I had one reply from someone in Boise, ID. I drove down from Spokane to pick him up on Friday. We got to Yosemite on Saturday after I displayed amazing endurance in eathing 54 pieces of sushi at an "all you can eat" sushi bar in Reno. We got there pretty late so no climbing on Saturday. I was very anxious to get down to it on Sunday though. To my dismay my partner was much less enthusiastic. It took much coaxing to get him to accompany me on some rock climbing?? WTF were we down there for? While packing for the climb, I noticed his pack was incredibly small.. That was because he only had a harness and shoes.. Uh Oh.. a little communication error's on the phone. He forgot his rope I Guess and didn't really have any other gear. No worries, off we went. We warmed up on after 7 to finish the crag on after 6. We did the first pitch of nutcracker, then went to Sunnyside bench. We did the two short pitches of the Jamcrack. I felt strong enough to lead Lazy Bum, a easier 10c or 10d, not sure.. But I kept popping at the crux. I had 2 bomber nuts in though. I didn't feel too secure in my belay though.. Since I fell 3 different times trying to top it out.. and everytime I fell at the same spot, but ended up about 7 feet away from the prior landing spot? We ended the day there. Next day was even harder to get Jared going. He kept wanting to go on a hike. Eventually we got going and did Bishops Terrace. The whole time he didn't look like he was having any fun.. WTF it was the coolest 5.8 I've ever done.

 

I managed to get him to be my belay slave at the base of el cap, he didn't even want to follow.At this point I had the talk with him, and told him I would find a new partner, and he could go on his hikes.. He wasn't disapointed at all.. I was though. But shortly after I posted a note on the bullutin board, I got a response. I settled into a bottle of Tequilla with this guy and we decided to do Son's of Yesterday. I was very excited, I had to bail on this route 8 years ago, and was happy to see if my cam was still there "ya fukin right". Anyways.. the bottle of Tequilla emptied quickly, so I broke out a bottle of Port.. Somehow, I managed to find my sleeping bag and passed out. I woke early to search out my new partner, ignoring the ache in my head. I couldn't find him anywhere. I went to the camp4 bathroom to do my buisness, and heard the most awefull sounds coming out of a stall. I almost called YOSAR to help put this poor soul out of his misery. It was coming out of both ends by the sounds of it. I was super frightened, it might be someone dying of EBOLA and ran for it. About 10 minutes later, watching from a safe distance, I gazed at the pitiful soul coming from the bathroom.. OH SHIT! It was my new partner! I guess the Shitty Mezcal, and Australian Port didn't go to well with his system. I was once again Fucked. I pacified myself with the comfort that I didn't feel like that guy. I left eary from the Valley, drove straight through for 22 hours.. and got home just to find out I work 2 11 hour nights in a row at the bar, and get to do it all over again! Who's not working this week!

Here Is Jared the lazy hippie following Bishops Terrace

 

Gear Notes:

Don't forget Sunblock, The village store only had this gel stuff for "Scuba Diving?"

 

Approach Notes:

Tioga pass will open May 15th? Or just a rumour?

[thelawgoddess]

ha, ha ... what an entertaining tr. i'm glad to hear you're still gung-ho to do it again after that experience! the valley can be a sweet place to be - even if you don't get to do all the climbing you'd like.

[fourteenfour]

54 pieces of sushi. ha! display of endurance, indeed.