Climbing Rainier this weekend, 4-10 and 4-11

[Mike_Gauthier]

I’ve been getting phone calls and email messages; folks seem psyched to visit Rainier this weekend. Not to mention the great weather and positive press in the TRs; I suspect there will be a lot of attempts.

 

People have been asking a lot questions about routes, NPS regs, etc. I’d like to share what I know.

 

1. The road from Longmire to Paradise still closes nightly to uphill traffic at 6:30 PM. For the most part, it tends to get opened in the morning around 8 am. Sometime around May 9, the road will open 24/7 (depending on snowfall).

 

2. Climbers can self-register for permits on the front porch of the Old Station at Paradise; it’s self-explanatory. Permits, blue bags and fee envelopes for climbing passes are available.

 

 

3. As mentioned in the many trip reports already posted, the routes are pretty much in great climbing shape. In my opinion, April and May about the best time to climb (when the weather is good). That means, IT’S TIME TO CLIMB, things are about as good as it gets. Based on field reports and observations, the Nisqually Glacier, Nisqually Ice Cliff, Gib Ledges Cadaver Gap and Ingraham Direct are all very doable. I suspect that the Kautz Glacier and Fuhrer’s Finger are too. I wont go into specifics about each route, but suffice it to say, the routes are ready.

 

4. If you’re into downhill sports, bring the boards. Conditions are EXCELLENT, especially on the Muir Snowfield. The Tatoosh is also looking sweet. I went to Castle the other day and found climbing nice and the skiing great. I took up telemarking this winter for those who know me to be a boarder. : )

 

5. Going to Muir? There is a nice boot track already in place; snowshoes really aren’t necessary but good footwear is. I recommend trekking poles, plenty of water, sunscreen and sunglasses (along with the other 10 E’s). Expect to see lots of people (for April) this weekend.

 

SAFETY

 

1. Springtime is avalanche time on Mount Rainier. Though we’ve seen very little snowfall in recent weeks, the potential for avalanche certainly exists. There is a large volume of snow still up there, and the warm temperatures could bring things down on top of you. This is definitely the case for the upper mountain however it is also true for steeper routes in the Tatoosh. I’m not trying to scare anyone off; just asking you to remember to carry a probe and shovel and wear your transceiver. Knowing how to use your equipment is very important.

 

2. A few folks who have asked about soloing, all I can say is watch for crevasses high on the hill. They are brutal, though the slopes look well covered.

 

My apologies to the experienced folks who find this information too basic.

 

Have a great weekend; wish I could be up there with you all. If you see an airplane buzzing around Sat night and Sun morn. Smile and wave, I’ll be taking your photo.

 

Mike

[foraker]

Thanks for the info Mike. I'm new to the area and it's always good to get the local news. Nice guide book by the way. :-)

[PTHudspeth]

Thanks Mike. Your insight is certainly appreciated by your less experienced folks such as myself!

[thelawgoddess]

thanks, gator!

[seatosky]

Hey Mike, have you talked with anyone this week that has been up to Muir? How are snow conditions there?