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TrogdortheBurninator

Looking for conditions/info on tooth south face

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I am a relatively new trad leader and I was planning to climb to tooth tomorrow with two friends. I was wondering if anyone had any info on the route's condition, and any special gear to bring. Is there still substantial snow on route that would require an axe or ice tool(s) or crampons? Would others who have climbed the route this time of year recommend climbing in shoes or boots? I checked past reports, but the most recent photos of the route were over a month old, and I figure things have probably dried up a lot since then. Also, any special approach suggestions (snow shoes etc). It sounds like the approach to pineapple pass is pretty steep, and some sort of traction might be useful. Thanks in advance.

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You probably wouldn't regret bring something for pineapple pass- an axe or crampons.

But then again, I've never climbed da Toof...

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As a new trad climber, you should bring whatever you feel comfortable leading with. If you need a set of stoppers and cams up to #2, go for it. A 5.10 climber telling you that he only used two pieces of gear is not going to help you much...

 

If you feel more comfortable in rock shoes, wear rock shoes. If you have a pair of sticky rubber tennis shoes (like La Sportiva Boulders or the like) wear those for the climb... If this is one of your first multi-pitch leads, I would sway away from wearing mountain boots on the route.

 

You should probably have an ice axe for the the pass...

 

Have fun!

 

Jason

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Take avy transcievers, poles, and shovels for the approach.

 

Whether you go in high or low you're in avalanche terrain....already one fatality there this year....no need for more.

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