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skyclimb

[TR] Mt. Hood- Wy-East 2/20/2004

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Climb: Mt. Hood-Wy-East

 

Date of Climb: 2/20/2004

 

Trip Report:

Started climbing at 4:00 a.m.. SKinned to 8500 feet and made the traverse. Downclimbed a large cornice, climbed 1000 ft. of alpine ice, 1000 of unconsoldated powder, and 1000 of rime. Cruxes were the cornice, reading wind loading, and the exit gullies on the east face. Great route, snow conditions were optimal for keeping things spice. Clear all day. Decended the south side.

 

Gear Notes:

two tools, crampons, skis

 

Approach Notes:

traverse at 8500, watch south-west aspects for wind loading.

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1000' of alpine ice.... confused.gif

used two tools.... confused.gif

Wy'East is a moderate climb on 45 degree neve' with some steeper gulleys.

Are you confusing it with something you read in Alpinist?

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1000' of alpine ice.... confused.gif

used two tools.... confused.gif

Wy'East is a moderate climb on 45 degree neve' with some steeper gulleys.

Are you confusing it with something you read in Alpinist?

yelrotflmao.gif I prefer to have two tools on 50 degree rime with big exposure. Thats just me though. As for the alpine ice, as I said, conditions were spicy. Unfortunatly not every climb in the mountains is on neve, especially in the middle of winter. bigdrink.gif

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Hey skyclimb thanks for posting your TR. We were going to ski Illumination to Ramona falls on Sat. the 21st doing the car shuttle thing. When we went to drop the car off we realized that we were going to be miles from the trailhead due to road being snowed in. I had read your post the day before and figured Wy'east would be a good plan B. Since we had two cars we dropped one off at Hood River Meadows so we could ski all the way down Super Bowl and out Heather canyon. We weren't planning on summiting.

 

It wasn't the best ski conditions on Sat. but it wasn't horrible. You prob. had better the day before. The climbing was really fun though. The rime was prime next to the Steel Cliffs. I'm bummed we didn't do the last part of the climb from the top of the face to the summit because I think it's a pretty cool one. It has such a different feel than the south side.

 

Anyway good job! bigdrink.gif Now that you've done the whole thing you should go back sometime and just ski the face. It's one hell of a loooooooong ski down to HRM wave.gif

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rockband.gif

Yeah, that ski looked freaking cruiser for sure. And all the way to meadows, that must have been like 5000 vertical hahaha.gif, nice

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