Give me some Granite Peak info?

[klenke]

I intend to solo Granite Peak in Montana around June 20 and would like to gather some info on the peak. I've read the summit push is class 4 scrambling. How much would snow on the route hamper the ascent/descent? Any other useful info would be appreciated.

 

Thanks.

[Lambone]

Hi klenke,

 

I've done that route a couple of times, it's sweet! Te climbinng itself isn't extrodanary, but the Beartooths are rad. It's a cool mountain all in all.

 

I assume you are refering to the East Ridge. It is class four, but definately has some moves on if you fall you die terrain, maybe 5.6ish. There are sections that you, or at least I did not want to downclimb. We brought a light ope and a rack of nuts, maybe a couple of bigger hexes.

 

The route finding is pretty straightforwar, but a bit tricky in places, look for the keyhole near the top. Shops in Bozeman can give you a better description. There wil not be any snow on the route unless you get stormed on.

 

I think the best approach is up to Mystic Lake, and up the "death switchbacks" to the Froze to Death Plateau. You can camp on the plateau, there is intermitant water, but watch out for fragile vegetation. And LIGHTNING, I had a near death experience up there in may, lightning hits that plateau like World War III and there is no where to hide.

 

There are bivuoac shelters built in the little saddle between Tempest Mt. and Granite. These are nice and flat, but no water, you will be closer on summit day though.

 

Try to do the route on a weekday, and start early. It can get crowded with big groups, you don't want to be under people. The typical classic route situation...

 

Watch out for the goats on the plateau, they want your salt and will stop at nothing to get it. I think they live on Nylon!

 

Have fun dude, the Beartooths rock! I'm jealous!!

[Lambone]

OOOPPPPSSS, shit almost forgot. Bring a light axe!

 

There is a steep snowfield that you must traverse to access the ridge benieth Tempest, you'd go a loooong way down with out one. Some people bring crampons. We didn't, there were steps already kicked in the snow, go light up there.

 

There is also a small/easy snow bridge just before the technical ridge starts. It's not really a bridge, just some snow you have to walk across thats about 2 feet wide and ten feet long. It will be bigger in the spring.

 

We ditched the boots and axe for rock shoes right after the snow bridge.

 

Hope that helps...

[klenke]

Thanks, Lambone.

Are there things like rap anchors or rocks available to make these anchors? I am thinking I'd take a short rope (25m?) to do some rappelling if necessary. Would this be sufficient? So these 5.6 moves are not sustained but merely 10 feet or so of climbing here and there?

 

I plan on going up the "Shocked" to Death Way like you suggest, camping there as necessary. If I start in Alpine, I may make a loop out of it--going down the southeast side to Granite Creek.

[Lambone]

Yes, all the anchors should be there. Mostly slings around blocks and stuff. You might want to bring some leaver webbing. We brought an 37m 7.8mm rope and doubled it while simuclimbing. It worked fine, not sure about 25m, probably ok. The climbing is not sustained, just a few short sections. I'd say the routefinding is more difficult than the climbing. It makes you think a little, but its esentialy a ridge line. Don't worry about the climbing, worry about the weather and the altitude. Carry lite packs!

 

I'm beginning to remember now. The steepest section is a chimmney 50ft 5.8 I think. Don't go up it, go out on the face to the right. Good cracks and the best rock on the route are found on that section. On the way down, rap the chimney, via. slings and be glad you didn't climb it. You'll see, its all there...

 

I have approached via all three routes. The plateau is by far the fastest, and easiest, but very exposed and windy up there. The plateau will have less snow, if here is still snow in there by then. If you go in this way, you can summit and hike out in the same day easyily.

 

We also went in from Phantom creek, out of East Rosebud. Longer, pretty hikinging...not a bad route, just more miles. You come up on the plateau from the east. Going out that way and back over will add an extra day to the trip.

 

Some people go up to Avalance lake from Mystic. And start the climb from down in the canyon. This may be safer if weather is questionable, but it adds lots of time and effort on to summit day. plus its a talus scramble from hell. BIG talus...

 

Also of interest, there is some good rock climbing near East Rosebud lake if you go in that way. Big Granite Towers everywhere, may be worth an extra couple of days to check out. Plus you can Go into Granite from Phantom creek.

 

If you ski, or board, you must go to Beartooth Pass along the Beartooth Highway, via Red Lodge. It's the best roadside skiing in the country, hands down. Imagine the North Cascades Highway, only you park at the top! Two cars makes for many turns in a day.

 

Shit there are a hundred things I could recomend to do around there...I wanna go back!

 

Feel free to PM me or meet me at the gym if you want to talk about Granite more.

 

[ 05-07-2002, 08:35 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[Lambone]

Just realized your planning to go solo...go for it! Definately doable. Rock shoes might be nice, depending on how comfortable you are with boots. I definately remember being happy that I carried them up there...but then again, I'm just a wimpy gym rat/sport tool.

 

[ 05-07-2002, 10:14 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]