[TR] Bald Mountain- South Face 1/25/2004

[catbirdseat]

Climb: Bald Mountain-South Face

 

Date of Climb: 1/25/2004

 

Trip Report:

Marek, Jake and I needed a trip to get in shape for some upcoming climbs. I suggested Bald, as I had been eyeing it on an earlier ski trip up Deer Creek Road.

 

According to Beckey, Bald is a straightforward walk up, so we didn't bring a rope or harnesses. We must have been in an optimistic frame of mind because we were talking about how we might do both Bald and Low Mtn on the same day. Due to the new snow that had fallen on Saturday, there was no way we would have time.

 

From the hairpin at 2834 ft we ascended the far right margin of an avalanche swath. Snow conditions consisted of 18-36" of heavy powder over about 18 " of solid base. At about 3600 ft we encountered a rock step that we threaded our way through using a series of ledges. At 4000 ft we gained the northeast ridge and ran up it until it became impassible near the summit. The ridge became as a knife edge with sheer drops on either side.

Looking for a different way we retreated down the ridge until we could traverse across the south face. Marek scouted to the northwest ridge and found the summit block no easier from that side than the other had been.

Looking up the face, there was rock, ice, snow and lots of small trees. Although it was very steep, about 70 degees, it seemed there were enough holds. As the others weren't interested in unbelayed 4th class climbing in winter conditions, I headed up the face in crampons using a single ice axe. I carried 40 ft. of old rope. I reached the summit in about 30 minutes. It consisted of a razor of unstable snow and since it was getting late, I snapped off a couple of pictures and started down.

I checked out the north west ridge and found it a no go, so went back up and followed my own tracks back down the face. I used the rope several times as a hand line by placing it doubled around trees and down climbed. I found that the frozen moss makes great pick placements and was glad to have them.

 

By the time I was down, and hour had elapsed and Jake who was cold had already headed down with the car keys. Marek and was anxious to split as well. It was now 2:30, so we beat it down to the skis and made it to the car just before dark.

 

Gear Notes:

Skis, snowshoes, poles, ice axe, crampons. Should have brought rope and harness

 

Approach Notes:

Skied Deer Creek Road from parking lot on Mountain Loop Hwy to the hairpin below Bald Mtn. Hid the skis in the woods and switched to snowshoes. Skis saved about an hour on the way out.

[ncascademtns]

Where's Low Mountian? Did you mean Long Mountain. I know that Bald is pretty cliffy from the lake.

Did Long a couple of years ago as a snowshoe and we had no plans of doing both of them. That would be a hefty day.

 

You may have made better time on Bald if you would have done the Martin Creek trail.

[klenke]

Yes, he meant Long. Low is down by Kaleetan Peak and Melakwa Lake.

 

Good job on the ascent, Catbird. Sounds like it was a spicy descent.

[catbirdseat]

Yes, I meant Long Mountain. I should have waited until today to post. I was way tired. Actually I am still tired.

 

Martin Creek works for Long, but not for Bald Mtn.

 

Edited January 26, 2004 by catbirdseat

[catbirdseat]

A certain friend, who happens to be fond of climbing in the Darrington area was interested in the view to the north of Deer Creek Pass. This picture was taken from high on the summit ridge of Bald Mountain. Kelcema Lake is in the foreground. The drainages are Clear and Copper Creeks. Three O'Clock Rock and Exfoliation Dome can be seen.

[catbirdseat]

I have to make a correction. It was the north face that was climbed, not the south face. We approached from the south but summited on the north side. The map is correct, the text was incorrect. My apologies.