Sabertooth Posted January 12, 2004 Share Posted January 12, 2004 Went up to Metaline Falls yesterday to scout for some ice. Our main objective was Pewee Falls, a 250 foot high waterfall where Pewee Creek empies into Lake Pend Oreille, near Boundary Dam. Here is the Topozone link... http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?lat=48.97083&lon=-117.35389 Pewee's north side was formed nicely with a lot of water still coming down the south side. The first pitch is about 150 feet of dead vertical WI5 ice, and looked super burly, too difficult for either of us to lead. Pewee empties directly into Lake Pend Oreille, so the lake needs to be pretty frozen to lead this climb. The base had enough ice there to safely get to the start. The second pitch backs off into some easier 3+ to 4 ice. We played around on toprope on the second pitch. It would be fun to follow a ropegun up the whole climb. We also scouted the unnamed ice fed by seeps from the limestone cliffs nearby. My partner had climbed several of them before, back in the late seventies, and found 4 to 5 routes of 1 pitch length between WI2 to WI5. The WI2 was burried in snow. The other ones were to dangerous to get to from the top with the soft unconsolidated snow. The WI5 way way to thin to climb, but the 3 looked climbable, though the ice was kinda brown. The 4 looked doable. The best way to get to them is probably to rap Pewee Falls then traverse the lake edge over. The snow conditions were horrendous to get to the falls. I had 30" powder snowshoes on and still sunk in up to my knees and hips at times. In good snow, the approach would be 10 to 15 minutes of easy hiking. We were also going to scout some other climbs in the area, but ran out of time, and we got tired of the soft snow. I've heard through the gravevine of a bunch of ice fed by similar limestone seeps around the lake and Metaline Falls. Some other day... In better snow conditions, this could be a worthwhile climbing area. You definately don't have to worry about crowds. I have a couple of photos I'll try to post tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted January 12, 2004 Share Posted January 12, 2004 Nice. You were right there, so why didn't you climb up Gypsy Peak while you were there? The town of Metaline Falls I thought was quite quaint. Hmmm, can't lead that WI5 Pewee Falls route unless the lake is frozen over? How 'bout starting in a canoe (or, , a rubber dingy)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted January 12, 2004 Author Share Posted January 12, 2004 Nice. You were right there, so why didn't you climb up Gypsy Peak while you were there? Ha ha. The snow was awful, that would have sucked! So when are we going to do the first winter ascent on the North Face of Hooknose, near Mount Abercrombie? The upper portion of the face is about 70 to 75 degrees. You haven't bagged that one yet, have you? Here's a crapy photo of the face. http://www.mnphotography.com/hknose01.html Hmmm, can't lead that WI5 Pewee Falls route unless the lake is frozen over? How 'bout starting in a canoe (or, , a rubber dingy)? It's a catch 22. If it is cold enough for long enough for the falls to be climbable, the lake is probably too frozen to use a boat or dingy. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted January 12, 2004 Share Posted January 12, 2004 Ah yes, I can see the route totally: 70-75 degrees of water ice or alpine ice or rock? Could Abercrombie be done in winter too? I'd want to pick that up too while I was over there, if I could. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted January 12, 2004 Author Share Posted January 12, 2004 Ah yes, I can see the route totally: Do I detect sarcasm? :-) I can only promise it will be an adventure. 70-75 degrees of water ice or alpine ice or rock? Could Abercrombie be done in winter too? I'd want to pick that up too while I was over there, if I could. Hopefully alpine ice or really firm snow. If not, take an easier line up either side. Abercrombie is an easy walk over the ridgeline from Hooknose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted January 12, 2004 Share Posted January 12, 2004 Could you do a carryover up Hooknose, over to Abercrombie, and back around to the starting point or to a different endpoint (a second car)? That would be cool. It looks like it's about 2 miles between peaks, which could be a long way in winter conditions. Maybe a carryover WITH overnight gear. Oooo! I'm game if you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted January 27, 2004 Author Share Posted January 27, 2004 Sorry it took so long. Here is a shot of Pewee Falls from above the limestone cliffs, where some of the other ice is. When we were down there, the line looked to be on the far right edge. The center had some huge icicles that would require some very interesting overhanging moves to get above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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