Tooth ice

[newmandan]

Any one seen it lately? Is worth carrying the tools, or will they just decorate the bottom of a rock route?

Dan

[highclimb]

i have heard that bringing one tool might be a good idea but just because it is snow covered rock. and it might be useful on the third pitch were a fall on snow would send you sliding. have fun

Aidan

[dbb]

I'd second that oppinion. When I did the S route in winter last year we left all snow anchors and tools and the base, and sorely missed them on the 2nd pitch. You could probably count on slinging some trees, but I recal a rather steep section of snow leading up from a steep wall w/o any foliage for anchors. A short tool would be good to carry.

In the kind of conditions we've been having, as well as most years, the S route wont get much or any ice on it (just snow). Who knows about the NE slab route in the new Nelson book... It may come in next year.

[highclimb]

The Northeast slab is not in its in the same conditions as the south face.......snow covered rock......very disapointing

if you are looking for a good alpine ice route do the NE buttress of Chair that is in but watch out for avi danger. have fun

Aidan

[newmandan]

I was thinking of the N/NE side. If nothing's in, we could switch to the S, but I was wondering if anyone already knew -- is the N side ice still climbable?

If it's out out out, we'll spare the tool weight and bring a Mark Twight doll instead.

Dan

[newmandan]

Thanks, Aidan -- you saved us a lot of dead weight. The NE Tooth is not in at all.

As of Sunday, the South side was still a fun alp-ish climb --- tons of snow on the approach for fans of post-holing and enough on the rock to encourage your buddy to lead. Good time all around.

Dennis-in-Yellow: got some good pics through the mist of you and your partner -- email me for copies.

Dan

[highclimb]

no problem dann glad to be a help...did you end up bring a axe up the S. side?

Aidan