Aconcagua in March '04 and/or Denali in June '04?

[crampon_retread]

I'm working to put together a three- to four-man team of intermediate to experienced alpine climbers to attempt one or both mountains in early 2004. (As for a partial climbing resume, I did Mexico's El Pico de Orizaba in March 2001 and Peru's Huascaran Sur in May 2002. ) Tune-up climbs of Mt. Rainier and other Northwest peaks in near future would be one beginning.

[Bug]

Denali in the last two weeks of May is consistently clearer but colder. I had two solid weeks of clear weather in 2001. I am hoping to get back up there in 2005.

[chelle]

March seems kinda late season for Aconcagua. What route were you thinking of?

[crampon_retread]

I agree, March is late. I'm now thinking early February would be better. Maybe earlier than early February would be better still? I'm open to other ideas.

 

And as for which route, I'm looking at the Polish Glacier route primarily because it seems to promise more snow than the Normal route.

 

But here again, I'm open. In fact, I'd like to do something other than a standard route if it is within my ability range.

 

So far, one other climber has committed to the Aconcagua climb. He will graduate university sometime in December, and will be ready to do a tune-up climb then.

 

Are you interested?

 

If so, please drop me a note, and we can figure a way to communicate more directly.

 

Greg

[crampon_retread]

Good information--thanks. So can you move up your schedule just a mite, say to 2004? With your knowledge of the mountain and my knowledge of Alaska--I lived there eighteen years, speak Alaskan, and can instantly convert currency--we'd make a good core for the team.

 

Life is short, and not to be a grinch, but who knows what evil might befall you or even Denali before 2005. Please to think about it, and if you're interested, let's talk some more.

 

Greg

[ashw_justin]

I've been thinking about The Andes ever since I left. I recently spent 7 months in Ecuador and heard good things about going south. I might be convinced to make the trip.

 

Rainier in January? With a 90-day visa to play with (I'm assuming that's what you get) it might be better to train on some of the lower peaks down there?

 

My recent climbs are here. Nothing too spectacular:

 

http://www.neolectric.com/~justin/NWframe.html

 

Just a warning, I would strongly consider bringing a snowboard if I went down there, depending on the feasibility of a summit descent, which I have to ascertain.

 

Let's talk, eh.