Biner to biner

[Geek_the_Greek]

Anyone have any thoughts on 'biner to 'biner links in anchors? I learned a long time ago not to do this, but was never given a good reason why. Thinking about it, I think I generally do it to help equalize anchors (to lengthen a sling just a little bit, for instance), or as a directional on multi-pitch to belay up a second (so the rope goes from my belay to the biner and down, so the pull is upwards). Yes, I too know that adding extra links to a chain means there are more potential failure points... It's mostly for anchor/gear management purposes. Any thoughts? Strong opinions?

-GTG

[Marcus_Engley]

quote:

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Originally posted by Geek the Greek:

Anyone have any thoughts on 'biner to 'biner links in anchors? I learned a long time ago not to do this, but was never given a good reason why. Thinking about it, I think I generally do it to help equalize anchors (to lengthen a sling just a little bit, for instance), or as a directional on multi-pitch to belay up a second (so the rope goes from my belay to the biner and down, so the pull is upwards).

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Geek,

I've done it for the same reason you cited above, though most frequently as a directional to belay the next leader (I usually belay the second straight off the anchor, unless they're sketchy). The reason I avoid it otherwise is mostly because it makes the anchor more complicated and I can usually account for the difference with some rearranging. Plus, as you said, it's another gate to bang open, or flip around, or get a piece of gear/rope hung up on.

m

[Dru]

Its easy for 2 non-locking biners clipped together, to torque on one another so that one opens the gate of the other one, if they twist at all. try it yourself at home!

[Gerg]

Dru's right on about this one. If I ever have to do a biner to biner link at an anchor or other critical point (like first piece of gear), I try to use locking biners. Aiding is another story...