miker Posted February 25, 2002 Posted February 25, 2002 So I went to visit my sis in New York this weekend and had a chance to wander around Central Park and try some of the boulders I had heard about. Rat Rock was cool with about 6 or 7 climbers hanging out and talking about the "east coast" scene and the Gunks and how it is way harder than anyplace else in the country due to sketchy pro and hard ratings and exposure. Anybody agree with that? The rock in the Park is interesting with quartz crystals and strange Lava looking outcrops. The one thought that kept going through my head is that New Yorkers have been scrambling over these rocks for hundreds of years, and it showed in the super glossy footholds of glass. Anyhoo, that is one more state I have climbed in, just 43 to go... Quote
Matt Posted February 25, 2002 Posted February 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by miker: Rat Rock was cool with about 6 or 7 climbers hanging out and talking about the "east coast" scene and the Gunks and how it is way harder than anyplace else in the country due to sketchy pro and hard ratings and exposure. Anybody agree with that? No this is not true unless you are a sport climber. There is a very traditional ethic at the Gunks so you have to be good with natural protection in unconventional ways (lots of horizontal seams), but I do not think it is harder. They might feel this way because there are several interesting climbs that are only 5.6. At most areas a 5.6 route isn't worth climbing by most standards, but at the Gunks there are big roofs and inspiring moves on easy climbs. If you can leave 5.10 at Index then you can lead 5.10 at the Gunks. Quote
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