trustyredalien Posted August 27, 2003 Posted August 27, 2003 Has anyone done this route recently? What shape are the Upper Curtis and Hell's Highway in? Still pretty do-able or melted out? Was interested in going up there this weekend but have never done it so I'm not sure what to expect this time o' year. Thanks! Quote
erik Posted August 27, 2003 Posted August 27, 2003 its always doable just depends on much you want it. and hurry up and find out, we b climbing it in sept! Quote
trustyredalien Posted August 27, 2003 Author Posted August 27, 2003 Yeah I'm sure it's always do-able. Just wondering if it's ice climby (that's my official terminology) up Hell's Highway. Quote
erik Posted August 27, 2003 Posted August 27, 2003 prolly so....no precip in along while. hot temps. i would imgaine the consolidation has made it pretty ice climby. tho one axe would be sufficent.imo Quote
trustyredalien Posted August 27, 2003 Author Posted August 27, 2003 That's what I wuz thinking but wuz looking for additional input. I think we're going to check it out and bring our toolies (more official terminology) to play with so I'll letcha know how it goes. Quote
erik Posted August 27, 2003 Posted August 27, 2003 well kick good steps as i am displeased at the propostion of slogging a passe glacier root, wit tue toolies. Quote
stinkyclimber Posted August 28, 2003 Posted August 28, 2003 We did it last weekend (Aug 22-23?). No problems whatsoever. The glaciers are in decent shape - a couple of tricky bridges, but both seem quite good and will probably last out the season. Only one other party on the route who, inexplicably, camped at Winnie's Slide, then only went to the base of the summit pyramid before turning around for lack of time. We passed them on the way down the Chimney's after topping out, and easily beat them out. A lotta shit to carry so high. The snow is nice and consolidated, giving easy travelling conditions both in the morning and even in mid-afternoon. One axe is fine, and a short rope. We neglected to look at, or bring the guidebook, so consequently wasted 3 hours going up the wrong start to the Chimney's, then downclimbed/rapped it, found the right start higher up, then soon after realized we were about 20m shy of the trail in the gully we originally took. Yes, we are a bit slow. Our 530 start from Lake Ann translated to an 830 start after deducting our clusterfuck, and the snow was still fine coming down. Otherwise, a pretty casual 12 hours return from Lake Ann - only 9 if we hadn't gotten lost. We should have just done it car to car and skipped the Lake Ann bivy (although it was a great sunset) - Lake Ann (aka Lake Giardia) is infested with dogs, and is only 90 minutes from the car, even with an overnight pack. Have fun. A nice, easy, scenic mountain route with a bit of everything. Quote
trustyredalien Posted August 28, 2003 Author Posted August 28, 2003 Thanks! Looking forward to it! Quote
trustyredalien Posted September 3, 2003 Author Posted September 3, 2003 Had a great weekend up in the sun. Took three easy dayz and camped at the spots below the Chimneys (had to suckle water out of a few remaining snow patches). You can follow cairns along the tallus field to some yellow spray painted arrows (albeit faint) marking the entrance gully to the Chimneys, then just scramble up where it's most well worn. Snow was great for cramponing in the a.m., but got a bit rotten in the afternoon sun. Upper Curtis and Hell's are pretty broken up with two crevasses that may be impassable in a few weeks. (Running leaps of faith may work.) Definately a fun route with lots of variety. Much more rewarding than the slog up the Sulphide. Oh yeah - no toolies needed. Quote
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