Guye Peak TR - The Improbable Traverse

[Winter]

Guye Peak – The Improbably Traverse

 

I had been in contact with Tom over the last several weeks, trying to set up a trip before the end of the summer. I had never climbed with him before and had only heard stories of his times with my father back in the ‘70s. We had originally talked about the N. Ridge of Stuart, but time ran short on his planned trip abroad. Outerspace came up as well but I had done it earlier this summer as had his son Bob, who would climb with us. I hadn’t even seen Bob since I was 6, back in 1978. I finally got a message from Tom on Tuesday, suggesting the Improbably Traverse on Guye’s West Face.

 

I had often looked at the face as I drove out I-90 for other adventures. The Beckey guide describes several routes but doesn’t inspire much confidence on the quality of the rock. Nevertheless, the face looked steep and promised excellent positions and fabulous views. I couldn’t turn down the opportunity and decided at the last minute to ditch work and make the drive to Seattle.

 

I met Tom, Bob and his daughter Melissa at the trailhead at about 7:30 on Thursday morning. We parked near the ski club and thrashed through a bit a brush on our way to the scree gully leading up the west face. We roped up and started climbing at about 10-ish I think. I tied in with Tom with Bob and Melissa on the other rope.

 

Bob lead up the first pitch, which was easy class 3-4. The ramps lead to a broad broken corner that heads up the south side of the west face. I followed closely behind Melissa and brought Tom up at the first belay. Bob led out the second pitch and stopped part way up the corner. I started out in front of Melissa and managed to thrutch up some broken terrain of questionable quality. The rock was interspersed with dirt and shrubs, and none of the rock looked very reliable. A short step led to a solid sling belay, and I brought Tom up as Melissa reached Bob’s belay a bit further below.

 

From there we had one more pitch to Lunch Ledge. I led out in front of Melissa, who took this pitch for the other rope. The terrain started to bulge, looking like horizontal dinner plates that offered almost no protection and inspired even less confidence in the rock. I hadn’t really minded placing 2-3 pieces on the first couple of pitches, but I was soon wishing for better cracks. I had to cut back from right to left across the broad corner to find the decent rock and the easy way through the bulges, but I soon found myself in the corner with a 4 inch fist crack, 5.6-ish, and smooth slabs on either side. I managed to get in a #3 cam, which felt much better, jammed my fist in the back of the crack and pulled through to Lunch Ledge.

 

We brought everyone up, and took a look at the improbable traverse. Bob led across, finding good protection and built a belay anchor right before the final corner which takes you to the class 3 ramps. Tom led across this pitch in excellent form, clipping Bob’s piece, which Melissa had left in place. I really enjoyed this part of the climb, watching Tom work his feet on the traverse, thinking through moves while comfortable on lead. With air beneath his feet, Tom made the final careful moves to the small belay ledge. Bob again led around the corner, which was probably the crux of the route. A couple of nice handholds on solid rock lead right to the start of easy slabs. Melissa followed and then I led Tom across. From there it was a long easy scramble to the top.

 

We topped out, shook hands and talked briefly about the wonderful retrospection inspired by a climbing trip with friends I had really only known as a toddler. My sister stayed with Tom when I was born. My family spent many hours with Tom’s when Melissa was born. Tom and my father has shared many experiences over the past 30 years in the same field and with the same friends. But since 1979, when we mvoed from Seattle, I had only seen them ocassionally once very 5-10 years.

 

We descended through the blueberry fields, and I lagged a bit behind stuffing my face as I flashed back to other childhood memories of similar scenes in Maine with my parents. We eventually got back to the cars at around 6-ish. We sorted some gear, exchanged a few hugs and drove our separate ways. Hopefully our climbing paths will cross at some point again in the near future. I returned back to my sisters’ house, took a shower and had a full home cooked meal and 3 screaming adorable nieces waiting for me. I wonder if I’ll see them on the rock 20 years from now.

 

[catbirdseat]

Inspiring. Glad you had a good time.

[minx]

fyi instead of parking at the ski club you can drive up alpental road a bit further, take a right into the neighborhood and find a parking area where the road takes a sharp bend. this avoids all the bushwhacking on the approach. More time in the boulders but less time in the brush.

[Cpt.Caveman]

minx said:

fyi instead of parking at the ski club you can drive up alpental road a bit further, take a right into the neighborhood and find a parking area where the road takes a sharp bend. this avoids all the bushwhacking on the approach. More time in the boulders but less time in the brush.

 

That's not good info as I interpret it.

 

Reason is that if you park in the open bend there are towing signs.

 

The best parking is probably just west of the first bridge on the north side of the main road while nearly below the peak... No signs no troubles (yet). Less likely to interfere with private parking, lands or making an impact like one might by parking in the "living or vacation properties".

 

Then you can walk up the road to where it bends and within 100 feet be in the scree and boulders.

[minx]

last time i checked (this morning) there weren't any towing signs there. maybe they came down this winter. regardless, people park there regularly w/o getting towed. but no harm in parking down below and walking up to avoid the shrubbery.

[Cpt.Caveman]

minx said:

last time i checked (this morning) there weren't any towing signs there. maybe they came down this winter. regardless, people park there regularly w/o getting towed. but no harm in parking down below and walking up to avoid the shrubbery.

 

Well then I believe your description is misleading and we are not talking about the same area.

[mvs]

I saw the towing signs at that convenient parking area in July, so I drove down to the Alpental road to park.

 

I wouldn't care if it was an empty lot surrounded by trees, but I can picture some of the homeowners nearby being eager with phone calls to tow truck companies...

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

minx and I have both agreed we are talking about different locations. From her description it sounds like there is a better parking area than the one I used.

 

Whatever though. It's not like I have any reason to park there again unless I want to go skiing this winter.

[ncascademtns]

The turnout at the base of the Guye is the tow area I believe. We pulled in there a few years ago and had a bad feeling when we started unloading. People came out of there houses and looked at us. There was a tow sign so we figured if we did park there, our car would be gone by the time we got to the route. We ended up moving the car down to the main road and walked back up.

Better safe than sorry .