N Pickets

[meganerd]

Ok, since I can't seem to find anyone to go with next week, I'm thinking of heading to the Pickets via Access Creek to climb Luna Peak by myself. I've read quite a bit of beta on the approach and it seems reasonable as long as I take it slow enough not to get frustrated (I have five days available, so I might as well use it). Am I making some sort of gross error? Has anyone been up there recently enough to tell me wheather there have been any changes from previous reports? Is there a log across Big Beaver? Where? Any other weird conditions? Also, something I'm not clear on: how does one get from Access Creek Basin to the S Ridge leading to Luna Peak? Is it a talus gully? snow gully? any bergschrund problems? Any recent beta would be appreciated.

 

Also, does anyone want to come with and climb Fury too? (8/18-22)

[forrest_m]

Sounds like a fun plan if you like solo stuff… personally, the only way I can stomach serious bushwacking is if I have someone to complain to about it, but to each his own.

 

To get from the access creek basin to luna pass, you are correct that you must climb a gully (snow early season but probably talus by now). After climbing the long slope above the Beaver trail, you will break out into a more open, flatter valley area. This is slide alder hell, but you can escape slightly uphill onto talus slopes left of the creek. Not long after you pass the largest talus field, start looking for your gully. It ascends behind a rock buttress and is more-or-less in line with the axis of the valley, though it climbs up the left hand slope. There are several to choose from, but you should be able to tell from below which is easiest.

 

Once on the ridge, follow the crest for a short ways (like ¼ mile), then leave the crest and traverse up and left across the slope to Luna Pass. This section is in the very last of the trees, so navigation is pretty straightforward (esp. compared with getting up access creek). From Luna Pass, the summit is about 45 minutes.

 

haven't been since '98, so no recent beta, but search the board, there was a thread last summer about the log over the creek.

[skykilo]

Following the Big Beaver Trail, there is an arrow carved into a piece of wood about one mile after the Luna Creek Campground, courtesy of David Parker.

Head straight down to the river and there is a log to cross. The schwack isn't bad.

To get out of the Access Creek Basin, you just go left (south) to the easier terrain instead of straight up Luna's west(?) face. Then there will be an easy gully up to the right after the little glaciated couloir. It was all a wide, moderate snow gully in June, so there will probably be some snow, but that's speculation.

After getting to the top of the gully, you will be left with a traverse over heather on ~30 degree type slopes to get to the saddle betweeen Luna and Fury. This was snow in June, but I'm pretty confident it's melted.

That's beautiful terrain! It sure does take a long time to get up to the views, but they're worth it. Take a look at the South Pickets and pay reverence to Wayne, Colin and Marko.

 

I don't think climbing Luna by yourself would be too much 'lunacy', but I sure would hate to sprain an ankle out there by myself, so watch your step! Oh yeah, and break a leg!

[Rod_Xuereb]

I'd be interested in this trip, or in the S. Pickets for Fury.

I would prefer, Thurs/Sun. What about Redoubt/Spickard?

[Rod_Xuereb]

Sorry, I meant S. Pickets for Terror.

[ncascademtns]

Rod_Xuereb said:

I'd be interested in this trip, or in the S. Pickets for Fury.

I would prefer, Thurs/Sun. What about Redoubt/Spickard?

 

Hey Rod,

Already done Redoubt/Spickard. Fury too.

Terror I have not done yet.

How did your Robson climb go?

[wayne]

They are usually referred to as "Robson Attempts"

[steve-o]

Hey meganerd. I'm looking to go up Luna in late August this summer ('06). Did you go and what were the approach conditions to Luna col?