Mt Daniel TR

[Coopah]

ncascademtns, myself & 4 others climbed Mt Daniel via the Lynch Glacier on Saturday. Since this was my first time leading a glacier climb I really wanted everything to go well.

We departed the deception pass trailhead at 9 am. We left the trail ~ 1/4 mile north of Hyas lake and headed Westerly cross country on the valley floor. We were fortunate to have some beta from a friend to stay South of the creek that drains from the large basin on the west face of Daniel. By doing so we were able to keep our boots dry.

Just prior to gaining elevation, we crossed this same creek to the north and followed it west along the North edge of the drainage. This led us up to the PCT which we turned North on for ~ 250' to a dry and rocky creekbed. We took a much needed break here. Once we got going again we initially began to hike up the dry bed but soon discovered there was a very faint and ocassionally flagged climbing trail in the trees which we gladly took as it kept us out of the sun. Some minor bush wacking got us up to flat area (and we regained the climbers trail) a very small water source were we took another break and filtered some needed water. From here we had a good view of the basin & waterfalls coming off the remenants of the Daniel glacier. We then climbed up to the Lynch draw and took a much needed 1+hr long break. Our initial plan was to camp here then make for the summit Sunday morning then descend the SE ridge past Peggy's Pond and exit via the Cathedral Rock trail. As a group we decided forgo camping and head for the summit Saturday afternoon. Since Pea Soup lk was up to the cliffs, we had to ascend the N ridge ~ 150' and descend down & traverse over to the glacier where we roped up. I was feeling the heat now and was feeling somewhat nauseous but yet was glad to be able to summit in 2 hrs after roping up. Summited at 7:30pm The descent was fine with a bivy at 9:20 pm about 800' above Peggy's Pond. Thanks to ncascademtns for spotting a good bivy site for all of us I think only one of us cooked dinner. I wasn't one of them since I was feeling sick. In hind site I should have forced myself to eat & drink as on Sunday I was the slow one on the descent. Live & learn !! All in all it was a good climb. We definatley took the more strenuous but adventuresome approach. We had the route and summit all to ourselves only wished I had a to top it off.

Edited July 29, 2003 by Coopah