russ_cunningham Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 I climbed Glacier last weekend, and I can honestly say that it was one of the most grueling climbs I've done. The 10 mile hike in was absolutely brilliant; with sunshine and pristine wilderness, I felt hopeful about our climb. However as soon as we made high camp at boulder basin, clouds showed up and before long it was pouring rain. We went to bed hoping that the storm would blow over, but it didn't.... I woke up at 2:15am to the rain dumping on our crappy REI tent, and nudged my companions awake. Knowing we were about to embark on a soggy dangerous adventure, we almost decided not to go; but after remembering that we worked our asses off just getting to camp, and that the summit would only be a five or six hour climb away, we headed out into the damp cold darkness. After about two thousand feet up, the rain turned to ice pellets, and before long, a full out snow storm. It was a miserable slog to the top, and we didn't see crap, but I have to admit that I had fun. The last pitch to the top was the most interesting part; we had to do some front-pointing on the steep ice, and the glacial terrain was fabulous (even in a white-out). After returning to camp and throwing down some instant oatmeal, we began our long death march back to the car five thousand feet below. The hike out was absolutely brutal... one of our members twisted his ankle on the way down to the climbers camp, and I took most of the gear (rope, tent, climbing gear, food, etc...). I would guess my pack was at least 60 pounds, and by the time we got back to the car, I could barely walk at all. In retrospect, Glacier Peak more than earned its place as one of my classic Cascade Volcanoe suck-walks. I would love to go back up there sometime in good weather, and actually SEE the mountain; and I would also take three days instead of two to make it slightly more enjoyable. The end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 What day did you climb? Our climb began in light mist Saturday, and I was hoping for some July pow pow, but... the damn weather improved, and we were kissed by the sun. Glad to hear snow actually fell up there. Corey and I skied the summit directly to the south through a chute just west of Disappointment Peak, and did some yo-yo on the Sitkum Glacier. Glad others also enjoyed themselves! Sky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 Such great skiing on that mountain, eh Sky? Nothing beats the nice easy, but fun, turns of the sitkum after a tiring climb up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 Too bad you missed the views Russ. Here's a couple photos for you from my hike up to Kennedy Ridge on Friday. Perfect blue bird day. (The pics are just teasers cause the light sucked by the time we got to the full views of the peak from the ridge and they're too washed out to post...) Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=1450&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=1449&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 Â Next time check out the Frostbite Ridge climb. That is a kick your ass worth it experience. The approach hike isn't too bad, it's doing those 15 miles to get back to the car after the summit that is grueling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 Russ: Â Were you one of the 40 or so people I passed on my way down Friday afternoon? There were some guys with pickets, ropes, helmets, big steel axes, and huge packs humping up to Boulder Basin when I was on my way down. I told everyone who would listen to take only one axe, ski poles, and crampons on the climb. Â I climbed it solo on Friday. Kind of a 40th birthday present to myself. Left Bellevue at 4:15 a.m., left the car at 6:30 a.m., got to the top of the mountain via the Shitcum Glacier at 1:45, and back to the car at 7:45 after a 45 soak in the manky hot springs. Great, if hot, weather. Sorry and very surprised you guys had clouds and rain on Sat. Â Cheers, Â John Sharp Bellevue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 Josh- The skiing really is great. Nice slush the whole way, with no runnels or suncups. Quite a treat for July. John- We were starting right about as you left. I think in retrospect I'da left the crampons, too. I think I've said that about every slog I've done in the last month. Happy birthday! Now everybody else, quit going to Glacier Peak! It's a super long hike, the bugs are hell, and the mountain sucks! I just go there for Kennedy Hot Springs. Love those hot springs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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