scott_johnston Posted July 20, 2003 Share Posted July 20, 2003 For all of you hard alpinists out there who have just been waiting for your shot at the second (haven't heard of one yet) ascent of Gato Negro (see topo under TR for E face of Chianti from early July) on the W face of Silver Star, here is some advice you may find useful. A strong party, who shall remain nameless, was rebuffed on the infamous fourth pitch today. The leader didn't feel good about walking his #4 up the 40' 5.9+ off width like Larry did on our first ascent. The position is very exposed and steep and you still have to launch out on to some stout climbing above. Hence his admonition to future parties to carry a couple of #4s. I'd like to see others climb this fine route and don't want to hear about bad beta or ???? It's a long way to walk just to back off. We seem to have overlooked this tiny detail when making up the topo. Bobby Peru where are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 Bobbyperu and myself went up and climbed this route yesterday--a fine line and a great adventure with a rowdy descent! We swung leads, which worked out well--BP got 3/4 of the 5.10 pitches. The 10+ crux pitch is really spectacular--50' feet of hard slippery chimney, to 40' of classic offwidth, to 30' of flakes, to 30' of an overhanging shoulder-width slot with fingers in the back. A full value pitch! We topped out by doing the 5.10 splitter up the face of the final pillar (FA?). The descent is a long steep loose gully to the right (south) that cliffs out in several spots, requiring mid fifth downclimbing in maybe 4 or 5 spots, and maybe 5.7 downclimbing in one spot. We managed it in 7 long (averaging maybe 180' each) pitches and made it back to the car in 10.5 hours. Thanks scott/larry for posting the topo and sharing your discovery. Maybe I'll post a TR with a couple more details later. You can find the FA's Gato Nego Topo here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 i imagine you kidz didnt forget the lighter this time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 25, 2003 Share Posted July 25, 2003 yeah... great discovery larry and scott, you guys rock!!! the style in which this climb was discovered is impeccable, and my hat goes off to these awesome guys- way to get out there and get after it those inclined to "go out and have a look" will find much adventure in this area . anyway uncle tricky again proved to be a great partner and took care of me with food, party favors and overall attitude,i had a blast brotha, , and no erik we didn't forget the lighter, summit session was wacky fun, then full-on descent, and back for party time in shazama, a great day thanx again, and muchos props to the first ascentionists- heres to ya and to tricky look forward to climbing with yalls- kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_johnston Posted July 25, 2003 Author Share Posted July 25, 2003 Good job boys. Style Matters. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 25, 2003 Share Posted July 25, 2003 yeah scott, you said it man, style matters, and what a stylie climb so i found your topo to be spot on... no need for 2 #4 cams, also i felt it was fine with pro to 4"... the gully is totally dry- and loose... doable but i'm sure as this route sees more ascents (which it should, cause it truly is one of the better climbs in the area) rap slings will appear. tricky left one at the hardest part, i'm sure it'd be better earlier with snow, tho its definatly a go, just be carefull y'all... and the finishing pillar crack system is sooo nice and the yosemite crux crack pitch is one of the better single pitches i've led in the area, if not anywhere in the mountains thanx again for all the info and stoke. and to all y'all lookin for a classic line in a powerfully scenic area, high up on great rock, go check this out... muy bueno- bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted July 26, 2003 Share Posted July 26, 2003 Just a couple more details that might be helpful to another party... Approach: As for Burgundy Spire, when trail flattens out in basin below spires, take a right towards the base of the W. Face of Silver Star. Aim for the 30-40' high horizontal band of snow-polished white rock that trends up and right from the toe of the buttress above a snowfield. Route begins a couple hundred yards up right from the beginning of the white band, just after a big orange scar, about 50 feet left of a 4th class ramp system. While you could go up the 4th class, don't miss the first pitch: fun liebacking on perfect compact white granite up to a nice handcrack. Descent: Two single rope raps from summit block into gully to right (south) of Whine Spire. Descend exciting gully, downclimbing several spots where it cliffs out. After watching BP work out some hard moves downclimbing the toughest section I opted instead to sling a chockstone and rap. Setting up a rap in other places might be difficult for lack of non-portable natural anchors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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