Mt Grimface

[Mer]

Anyone done routes on Grimface in Cathedral Park? I see there’s a blurb or two on the bivouac site, but I haven’t spent the 20$ Can. to view. I have been scrambling up there, noted that one could camp at the lake below the peak, but wonder about the technical routes up through those splendid looking cracks. A web search reveals only guided outfits, no actual info.

Thanks

[Dru]

Do the Matriarch-Grimface traverse which has a topo in the Beckey guide. Since you ask nice I will copy-paste PM you the bivouac.com TR.

 

The NW ridge of Grimface is 3rd class (book says 3rd or 4th). The supposed 5.7 SE notch route is 4th class. The 5.7 SE chimneys look to be honest 5.7 and good fun. Mother of Invention looks pretty good too, you climb first pitch of SE chimney then go left.

 

I heard the south pillar of Macabre is real good and you can free the aid move reported in Beckey at 10c.

 

The north side of the Grim- Macabre ridge is licheny compared to the S side is what I heard. Also it's free and fast to hike in via Wall Creek - like 5 hrs from road end to the sweetest meadow campsites with bouldering and flat grass landings and the odd bear.

[layton]

S.pillar on Macabre looks cool

[Dru]

and so does the new route "Sheep Go to Heaven etc" on the next pillar over that Crapo et al put up last year

 

if only my camera hadn't been broken when i went into the cathedrals!