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Posted (edited)

I was just up there last Sunday. Trip report here:

 

http://www.speakeasy.net/~sramsey/climbing/triplog/200306-ingalls

 

We certainly didn't see any "snow free path" to the route. It was a snow climb from Ingalls Lake all the way to the base of the South Ridge.

We used instep crampons and hiking boots to get to the base of the climb. Full crampons were definitely not needed. Ice axe was helpful.

 

Edited by Stephen_Ramsey
Posted

that basin actually gets a decent amount of snow, considering how quickly the lower stuff in the area melts out. every time I've been to ingalls I've had to go through snow for a ways. don't let it discourage you, it's easy and goes by fairly quickly. You'll be rewarded with some good views of stuart hopefully. thumbs_up.gif

Posted

I was there two weeks ago and did the East Ridge, rapping down the normal route (South face). The snow conditions are normal for this time of the year and both routes are snow free.

 

The approach still had a lot of snow, but it was great step kicking. Better with snow. No need for crampons. I had an ice axe up the chute leading to the East Ridge and was glad that I had it, though a set of poles would have been alright.

 

The South Face route is snow free from the normal start point. No need for ice axe or crampons.

 

Do the East Ridge. A more fun/interesting route with less people on it. bigdrink.gif

 

I would either start very early, or wait till a bit later. Be first or least one on the route. grin.gif

 

have fun wave.gif

Posted

Yeah, *definitely* do the east ridge. Unless you are a beginnier, the south ridge (more acurately described as a face or a slab) is very easy. And alasdair described it perfectly, it'll be a cluster fuck indeed on a weekend like this. It's probably only has the tooth for competition for the most overcrowded "alpine" climbs around here.

Posted

Climbed Ingall's on Saturday, thanks for the advice. We started the route at 4pm with another party, and met a third party coming up at 5pm. We saw at least 15 people come of the climb that day. Good beginner route, and a spectacular day, pretty much haze free.

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