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mount stuart

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I'm looking for any beta on the west ridge of mount stuart. I'm looking to climb it in mid to late july. Any specific route finding information, info on the descent, pics much appreciated.


climb on.

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Here's a link good search page, try putting in west ridge stuart . That'll probably set you up with some pictures.


Check out Fred Beckey, "Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes: Vol 1- Columbia River to Stevens Pass (3rd Ed.)", it'll do you right.


Hike in via Ingalls Lake. Try to figure out your route very carefully from there and figure out how you're going to recognize it from the bottom. Because once you get right to the base of Stuart from that side it all looks like a big jumble of rocks.


As for specific route-finding choices, that is basically the crux, finding your way expediently so you don't have to bivy. One choice I would recommend is sticking closer to the crest instead of going by Long John Tower. If you go near the crest there is one spectaculary exposed (scary!) 10 foot traverse, then the rest is cake. I've never gone the Long John Tower way, but from reading about it on the innernet it looks like it's less than straightforward.


Descend Cascadian Couloir. It can be dusty and dry, but it's pretty easy. Return to your cars via Longs Pass. Of course you can't do this if you bivied somewhere along the line. If you're quick you can easily do it in a day from the car. But a lot of people who think they are "quick" end up bivvying on the West Ridge. grin.gif


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Type this into Google:

"west ridge" "mt stuart"

It is a much documented route.

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I just climbed this route a couple of weeks ago and posted a trip report on this web site. (Alpine Lakes, page 2 I think) - It may not be much use to you since conditions will change a bit by mid-to-late July.


Routefinding should be a little more straightforward by then without all the snow; quite a bit of it follows a well-beaten path. Caution you to know what you are getting yourself into -- this route is a lot of traversing and scrambling. If you are coming from NY and looking for some good cascade granite, there are a lot of better things to do. If you want a long, alpine scrambling excursion with some great views and some minor rope work, then this is your climb. If you're just hard up to climb Stuart, then this is a good route and more exciting than some of the simpler slogs.


As stated above, come in over Long's Pass and out via Cascadian Coulor that late in the summer. If attempting in a single day, get a very early start.


The following site isn't bad for beta but I'd couple it with Beckey's.


Have fun and enjoy.


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