LANES PEAK

[troy_moss]

I have climbed Lanes Peak many times by many routes and have noticed that almost all climbers call the 3 north couloirs by different names.Looking at the North Face from Paradise (facing south ) I call the routes,starting from the left,THE ZIPPER,the middle route THE FLY ,and the route on the far right LOVERS LANE.I certainly dont think I have it right, please help.

[Dwayner]

North side of Lane Peak:

thin narrow chute on the very far left: Lover's Lane

Two major chutes forming a sort of V:

Left: The Zipper

Right: The Fly

Lover's Lane actually ends at a cliff above the Zipper into which one can traverse or rappel.

 

There are also a couple of chutes running up the right hand side of the wall in the upper part of the Zipper.

 

Also, a route starting in a small chute in the middle of the face between the Zipper and the Fly: north face direct. It's pretty bushy and the crux is getting over a loose, reddish, vertical band of rock between the lower and upper face. (5.7?).

 

- Dwayner

 

[troy_moss]

Thanks Dwayner ! Your obviously A Tatoosh veteran. I just climbed Lovers Lane 2 weeks ago(melting out early this year)with my man Mfro, sporting(read greasy)rock step at a chock stone 2/3 up.The traverse into the Zipper is pretty cool, lots of tree anchors,kicked off a dusey of an avalanche there many winters ago when I was young and dumb ! I'm off for the zipper in 4hrs, Old and dumb !

[klenke]

Winter photo of Lane Peak from this year:

Lane Peak from north