Cascade Pass Ice

[DPS]

I went up to Cascade Pass this weekend to attempt an alpine route. Unfortunately, our chosen route was not in the condition we had hoped for so we spent the day climbing waterfalls. All along Cascade River Road there are a number of water falls anywhere from 1/2 to 2 miles up the road from where it is gated at mile 20 (parking lot for Eldorado approach).

The particular waterfall we climbed was at about mile 21.5 up an obvious avalanche chute. The waterfall cascades over hanging slabs forming alternating vertical pillars and curtains and 60 degree thin ice slabs for 4 pitches. Belays were good and rappels went off of trees (one rock anchor rap). I saw two other waterfalls up the same drainage that would make a trip in there totally worthwhile. Temps were a bit warm and the waterfall was melting as we were climbing. Difficulty was probably a stiff WI 3 with more difficult variations available.

I think access most years is easy until January, when deepening snow makes the drive up the road increasingly difficult. As it was we barely made it with a high clearance vehicle and chains (no 4WD). I am not sure if the park service ever plows the road but it is obviously maintained as several trees that had fallen across the road had been cut and removed recently. The snow that is currently falling may spell an end to easy access. However, it is just a matter of parking lower and skiing farther up the road. There is potential for perhaps 20-30 pitches of ice within a 1 1/2 hour approach from the gate.