Larry Penberthy

[Terry]

Larry Penberthy, founder of MSR, died yesterday at 85. The obit in the Tacoma News Tribune gives him credit for "MSR Model 9 stove, the first remote-burner-component mountaineers' stove, in which the liquid-fuel canister was not an integral part of the burner mechanism. He also developed the first multi-fuel stove for mountaineering. His other contributions to advances in mountaineering equipment, the company said, included metal ice-ax shafts to replace the weaker wooden ones then in use, a positive-clearance ice ax pick, which digs into glacier ice to halt an uncontrolled slide rather than skipping off the ice, and Gore-Tex laminated fabrics for backpacking and climbing applications, such as clothing and tents.Penberthy invented "pit zips," zippered underarm parka vents, helped popularize bicycle helmets and developed Teflon-lined ice screws that became popular for their strength and ease of insertion.Penberthy also taught the climbing community how to apply simple engineering principles to improve safety and efficiency, the company reported, such as teaching climbers to paint their shiny cooking pots black to increase efficiency."

I still use my MSR Sumner for glacier slogs and routinely use the old Thunderbird as a loaner for new climbers. Larry had long on-going battles with Mt Rainier Park Service regarding their methods in granting climbing permits. It was not uncommon for the people to be turned around due to poor equipment or lack of experience.

He had very strong opinions and his newsletter was a treat. He espoused the use of litmus paper to test your urine to see how acidic your system was while climbing at altitude. He thought ice axes needed to be long, and consequently MSR wouldn't sell you an ice axe if it didn't touch the floor while your were holding it while standing with your hands at your side. Terry in Tacoma

[Scott_J]

Well Terry I can agree to everything you said about Larry. I was his one of his store managers in the 11th Ave store right across from REI. He was a VERY different gentleman. Not only did he make a mark in mountaineering he was also quite the engineer. He and Ray Colter were part of the group that were in White Sands,NM doing reseach. Glass made he and Ray very weathy. Before that glass had a greater flow rate and was no very reliable in strength. Their research changed the way we see the world. I am saddened by his passing.