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Posted (edited)

Lots of not-so-consolidated snow last Saturday, and little ice to speak of except there was a nice little curtain at the top of the first pitch that took a stubby. There is a fixed pin in a rock outcropping out on the snowslope above and a good stopper placement right next to it, for a decent anchor. Leading the second pitch was tools driven spike first sometimes to halfway up my upper arm for a one ropelength runout, exactly like Jim's book says - except a whole lot nastier than the picture of Kit Lewis with the nice firm snow.

 

The final two pitches have lots of trees and rock pro, they're no problem. There was much less ice than I expected - unblunting my picks took a little while yesterday.

 

We used 1 screw, 1 #1 costalot, 1 knifeblade, 2 stoppers and 1 picket, plus slings on the trees of course. We could have left all this stuff en route and still had a decent rack on the summit. Oh well. Beautiful day to be out, I'd have killed for a pair of skis once done with the rap down the little gulley.

Edited by fleblebleb
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Posted

Good to see you got a climb in. 3 of us tried Friday, wouldn't you know the only day last week it was crappy weather. We backed off due to visibility, and seeing the new snow sluff down the face. Off by one day, but that's the way it goes. smirk.gif Hope the conditions hang around for a couple more weeks and we get another go.

Posted

Yup, bring a two shovels instead of tools, I think I made a grand total of 10 swings into ice or decent snow. On the other hand, we left a nice boot track behind....

Posted

I was up on the Snow Lake trail Saturday with some kids hiking, and got this shot of Chair. There are three people descending in the bowl, at the bottom of the picture. This was around 3:30 or so. Was that anyone here?

chair03.jpg

Posted

That's probably me chatting with the party of two that climbed after us. My two partners were a little bit ahead, at the boulder where we stashed the snowshoes.

 

Can't wait to get my pictures.

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