Mt. Kenya-normal route- need beta

[bubblebutt]

Planning a trip to Mt. Kenya with some friends and am interested in normal route on Mt.Kenya.

Any of you worlwide alpinists out there done the route?. I have Cam Burns guidebook but looking for some first hand beta in terms of difficulty , gear, time etc.

[Travis]

What's the normal route?

 

I didn't do any of the technical climbs, but a few years ago I trekked up to Pt Lenana. It's a crumbling volcano, so the rock quality is pretty variable at best. As far as gear, all I can say is bring everything you'll need and be prepared to burn kerosene. No freeze-dried food, fuel canisters are not easy to find, and beef is cheaper than rice.

 

If you've never travelled in that part of the world, some things I learned on the trip. Don't arrive in Nairobi on a sunday w/o a room; the whole city is shut down. As for the climb, choose an approach or descent that allows you to cross the equator. The one regret I have is missing out on that.

 

Here's my TR from a few years back, pls forgive the crap writing..

 

http://www.bootsnall.com/cgi-bin/gt/travelstories/africa/aug00mtkenya.shtml

 

[freeclimb9]

I've been up Pt Lenana --a walk up. Season is very important for going for the highest peak which offers only technical routes (don't even get me started on the theives who ripped my gear from a locker in a Nairobi hotel. Inside job, and what would they do with the gear anyways?). The "normal route" is supposed to be a muddy, ugly trek to the climbing. The routes on the eastside from the mountaineering club's hut looked the best to me. I walked out that way, and though it's wet, it's wilder. Okay, the Diamond looks awesome, too. You can get any fuel type you want in Nairobi. Take mega amounts of fresh food, hire porters to carry it, and enjoy the unique setting. Politics are unsettled there. Be smart.

[Winter]

Ditto on Mt. Kenya. I didn't climb the route but circunavigated the mountain and climbed Pt. Lenana.

 

I spent some time at high camp so here are my thoughts.

 

One, build in some extra time. You gain a lot of altitude quickly, and its a long route once you get to high camp. Give yourself a rest day or two and plan for weather contingencies.

 

Honestly assess how fast your climb and plan accordingly. Its like 25 pitches? 5.6-ish. You could probably simul-climb the whole thing in a few hourse if you're strong. If your belaying, its going to take you a LONG time. Most folks stay on the route in one of the old tin huts. You shouldn't need a very big rack. You probably will need crampons and maybe an axe for the party to cross the glacier.

 

There is a new rap route. Talk to one of the guides up at high camp and have somone point it out. It will save you a long timeon the descent.

 

Other than that, there are cool porters around to get your stuff up there, and the local guides have been trained by NOLS and are techincally competent.

 

Let me know if there is anything else I can do. I used a local guy named Francis to arrange transport to the park. Look for him, because he is honest and reliable. Watch out for the baboons at the park entrance campsite as well as the buffalos on the trail. Stay at the Sirona Lodge in Nairobi ... do not stay downtown. The Sirona will treat you exceptionally well. All the cabies at the airport will know where it is. DON'T let them talk you into something different.

 

Good luck and have fun. That place is amazing ... high rock quality with lots of potential.

 

Oh yeah ... we went the normal approach ... but the Chogoria route is beautiful with better wildlife.