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  • Albert_Pynstardt changed the title to 2025-2026 Mt Hood Speculation Thread
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ya know, it's looking good now, but if I look at that UW time-height meteogram forecast it shows the freezing line going way up again, literally off the charts. The first step on the Right gully, for instance, is low. I think we need it to be freezing at night consistently and not getting too warm during the day for the ice to form, which sadly is not what I'm seeing after this storm cycle.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well, spring time in November continues. But don't worry everything is fine ?. This next storm has the freezing levels over 10k so any ice that is there will get washed away. The next day temps drop to freezing level around 7k which would be perfect with all that water up there, only it will spike again over the weekend. Hopefully the second round will stay cold as currently predicted and we can actually start moving toward some semblance of normal start of winter conditions.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I took a look at, but chose not to climb, Eliot headwall on 2026-01-25. Here's a picture. It's a bit difficult to tell but I suspect that much of the snow is very firm. I haven't been up the north face gullies this season but in late november cooper spur offered roughly 1000 feet of climbing with penetration varying from crampon points to the ball of the foot or so. 

20260125_140129.jpg

Edited by conrad_c
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks very much for the photo!

I just went up by TJ this morning to take a look for myself. Based on my photos, the Eliot HW looked pretty damn good!... but now looking at yours, I'm not so sure. What I thought was blue water ice is maybe just plastered ice/rime...?

The upper ice step on the right n face gully looked good too. But both gullies seem very protected by the bergschrund. Hard to say if easily passable. 

P1000503.JPG

P1000495.JPG

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