Glacier travel, mountaineering question for those familiar with the Stikine ice sheet

[seth8a]

I posted this to some reddit forums but I don't think people had a clue what I was talking about, so here goes.  

I watched the "Devil's Climb" with Honnold and Caldwell with keen interest, having lived, worked and explored many mountains and glaciers in that area in the 1990s, including some really interesting times on the Baird and Shakes glaciers.  I was one of the Forest Service employees who rebuilt the Cascade Creek trail up through Falls Lake, so am very familiar with this area of the mainland. I am going back up to explore the Stikine ice fields next year.

However, what I was perplexed by was that Honnold's team didn't travel up the Baird to get to Devil's Thumb like Krakauer and others, but as I've done more research and it looks like Baird is hammered right now, may never be in condition again, from some kind of catastrophic glacial outburst flood.  

So, if you aren't taking Temsco, is the seemingly hellish journey up through Scenery lake and creek the only way overland now that Baird is out?  Is it possible to take Cascade Creek to Swan lake and then hump it to the Patterson and the Cauldron from there to get to the Thumb?  I'm wanting my trip to be boat/overland and not by helicopter.  There is no trail up to Scenery Lake and upper Scenery Lake and it sounds like a horrific trek.  

Thanks for any inside scoop if ya'll have one! 

[JasonG]

I would call up to Petersburg and track down Dieter!

https://www.npr.org/2023/09/09/1198625687/why-one-man-has-spent-much-of-life-trying-to-climb-a-near-impossible-summit

He's a homebuilder, so I'd try either hardware store in Petersburg.  They'll know how to track him down.

[Angela]

I can pass your question on to a few locals who have climbed it in the last 5 years. I grew up there but haven’t climbed it myself. I love the Cascade Creek trail and Swan lake- such an amazing area.  I'll be back this weekend for Mayfest and see if I can get any beta. 

[seth8a]

17 minutes ago, Angela said:

I can pass your question on to a few locals who have climbed it in the last 5 years. I grew up there but haven’t climbed it myself. I love the Cascade Creek trail and Swan lake- such an amazing area.  I'll be back this weekend for Mayfest and see if I can get any beta. 

Thanks, I appreciate you!  I remember Mayfest well.  I just connected with an old FS pal there and may get Dieter's number soon.  He used to hang out with John Pickens (RIP) who I was close to and worked closely with when I was up there.  I also wonder if Brad Hunter is still with the FS--he knew those glaciers well.  

Yeah, I was one of the 1990s crews that really made the Cascade Creek trail passable again.  It was brutal sometimes--we spent quite a bit of time blasting with John Pickens into the side of the canyon for a portion, but the experience made me the man I am today.  My daughter, who works in Yellowstone now, will be with me when I go back up! 

Edited May 13 by seth8a

[seth8a]

On 5/11/2025 at 4:52 PM, JasonG said:

I would call up to Petersburg and track down Dieter!

https://www.npr.org/2023/09/09/1198625687/why-one-man-has-spent-much-of-life-trying-to-climb-a-near-impossible-summit

He's a homebuilder, so I'd try either hardware store in Petersburg.  They'll know how to track him down.

Cool thanks!  I think I may write him a letter as I think we have a couple of friends in common.