In Search of a Climbing Partner for my Vacation

[KevinZim]

Hello from North Carolina,

 

I am using this forum in preparation for an upcoming trip to the PNW (first time visiting).  I am in search of a partner or group to climb and or mountaineer with the first week of May.

 

I have extensive rock climbing experience (including trad), time in alpine environments, intense endurance events, backpacking, some ice climbing experience, and mountaineering exp, a full set of gear, etc.  I have no avalanche or glacier travel knowledge beyond what is available to read in the Freedom of the Hills.  I am more than happy to do some intro climbing or trips with any interested partners to vet each other’s skills before embarking on a more intense trip.

 

Recommendations for challenging, moderately technical routes to solo (if this post fails to find a partner) avoiding glacier and avalanche territory would be much appreciated.  I’ll have a rental car and plan on going as far south as Shasta.  I love punishing myself and have a week to do as many awesome climbs as possible!

[bedellympian]

Hey Kevin,

You should define "moderately technical" for you. Also, some more specifics regarding grades, and "intense endurance events" would help people get a sense of where you're coming from. I assume you are not on skis? What's your plan for flotation?

Month of May can be a mixed bag but the rental car and willingness to drive all the way to Shasta will mean you can definitely find plenty to do. Usually most experienced people are still skiing the bigger mountains but some drier side, south facing and/or lower rock features will definitely be climbable if it's not raining. You can always turn to cragging at Vantage, Smith Rock, etc. if it's raining in the mountains. Sounds like you want to spend time in the mountains more.

Are you flying into Seattle? Portland?

[KevinZim]

Thanks for the reply.

 

More interested in mountaineering opportunities than rock climbing.  Moderate-steep snow, class IV with some class V is good.  I didn't put a grade on it because each climb will be evaluated separately with the combo of exposure, sustained difficulty, etc. I have ice axes, ice tools, crampons, etc. No skis.  I've done ultras, speed hikes, military ruck races exceeding 30 miles...point is physical challenge is ideal.

 

Flying into Seattle and will have from 2-8 May.

[bedellympian]

Any route with steep snow will have avalanche hazard if there is fresh snow or sudden increase in temperature. That said, if temps are consistent for the days before and no fresh dump, then spring usually leads to a very stable snow pack. I would consider bringing light snow shoes for PM low angle snow portions.

Some recommendations based on what you've said for further South, which may be where the weather takes you...

Shasta - Casaval Ridge

Theilsen - standard route

North Sister - S ridge, standard route

Jefferson - S ridge, standard route

Hood - South side or some of the Devils Kitchen Headwall variations

Will your rental have high clearance or 4wd?

 

Edited Saturday at 05:42 PM by bedellympian

[KevinZim]

Huge help man.  Was planning on hitting Mt Hood on the way.  I can upgrade the car if required... I'll put in some research on these routes.