[TR] Gunn Peak - Uh, south. Standard. 11/26/2023

[geosean]

Trip: Gunn Peak - Uh, south. Standard.

Trip Date: 11/26/2023

Trip Report:

On 11-26-23 me and @Albuquerque Fred climbed Gunn and Tailgunner peaks. It was grand fun made much easier than is typical for this season due to the long high pressure system that melted and crusted the snow. Not knowing what to expect from the conditions we brought all kinds of gear: rope, pro, axes, crampons, helmets, snowshoes. We didn't use any of the technical stuff, just axes and crampons, and helmets.

The trail wasn't as bad as we expected from the reputation, but it was pretty bad. The heavy frost down low made sure the brush was dry at least. We had to use crampons to manage the log crossing at Barclay Creek. Snow began at 4300', then we broke out into the open and thanked the crust for making the walking easier. Another party in days past broke some trail that helped a bit. 

Yada yada yada, we donned crampons at the base of the "hidden ledge", not so hidden and definitely more of a gully than a ledge. There was some ice and since 2 climbing for a short distance. The upper snowfield was easy. The ridge crossover at 6100' was the make or break when we got our first look at the traverse ledge on the north side. I was pleased to see that the previous part left us some steps and a bit of a trough. It was a piece of cake actually, though heady. This was what we brought the pro for. You descend, then a really thin snow ledge with exposure, then ascend again. It would protect very well as the belayer is at a notch and there are several great cracks at the low point, then trees at the top on the far side. 

Then an easy walk to the summit. It had been very warm in the sun all day and it was positively balmy on the summit, T-shirts and lady bugs (not a euphemism).

The descent was about the same, crust plodding, then up Tailgunner. Then down, down, down. Headlamps for 15 minutes.

Given a high snow level to make the trail tolerable, I think this would make a fine all year summit if you bring pro for the north side (or are bold on a steep slope with exposure going both up and down and across). 

The route:

 

First crux:

 

Second crux:

 

Summit:

 

Frost line stayed in the valley all day:

Gear Notes:
Carried a lot. Used axe, crampons, helmet.

Approach Notes:
Trail is ok, not as bad as advertised.

[Bronco]

Looks like great conditions, might have to put this back on my list for this fall after the rain clears out next week.