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Two friends of mine just climbed a cool ice route on the NE face of Middle on wednesday. It lies just to the left of the NE Face route as shown in the guide and flows down over the rock band. The first pitch was WI 4+ followed by a second pitch of WI 4. Protection was sparse. The rest of the route was 55-60 deg neve to the top.

 

I've never seen this route in before, but may be in high pressure winters like the ours, it forms. Its very cool looking.

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Posted

It is cool, no? When I did it ,it was thin and slightly rotten and unprotectable.Now I cant believe I just called it cool. confused.gif The E buttress is good too Billy Hunt

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