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[TR] Mt Jefferson - South Ridge 07/23/2021

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Trip: Mt Jefferson - South Ridge

Trip Date: 07/23/2021

Trip Report:

Since this was my first attempt at Mt Jefferson, I figured I’d go with the easiest route. Too many stories about the SW ridge to consider it. Started off Thursday night from Pamelia Lake Trailhead. Great trail over to Coyote Lake but no trail after that. Was surprised that the route went over a small rock outcropping with a little class 3 section – was following the Whole Enchilada route. The rocks started not far after that. There were a couple of snow fields in the path of the route but were easy to get around. Reached the Red Saddle around 5:10 AM. Only about 30 to 40 percent of the traverse had snow and the middle was very steep. Followed a few faint boot prints rather than trying to stay in the moat. Snow was very firm. Got only a couple inches of penetration when plunging the axe so instead, daggered with the axe and a tool the whole way over. Traversed around to the north side. This part seemed to have worse rock quality than North Sister but with slightly less runout danger. Followed a path / cairn to wind back over to west side directly below the summit then climbed the rocks with white covering. Came down the south side of the pinnacle and back over to the west – much easier than the climb up.


Gear Notes:
Trail runners for the approach, mountaineering boots for the rock and snow, crampons, an axe, a tool, poles, helmet

Approach Notes:
Long and rocky
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