Broken Top South Side Beta

[joepreston]

Hey All

First-time poster here. I'm looking at doing a pre-permit climb of Broken Top from the Todd Lake approach to the south side. Thinking about the 9 o'clock couloir or the south face gully. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks! 

[bedellympian]

Its going to be warm AF any day with sun. I would go out the night before and camp just outside the cirque. Scope the route that night so you can top out as sun hits. 9 o'clock faces east, 11 o'clock faces SE, High Noon faces south. First two are straightforward snow climbs (cornice topout is possible but should be small this time of year), High Noon is capped with low 5th rock for a pitch or two. 

Honestly, I would recommend this as an early winter zone more than a spring zone, its just too warm this late in the season.

Edited May 5, 2021 by bedellympian

[joepreston]

Awesome info! Thank you @bedellympian finding info like this outside the Oregon High book has been challenging.