[TR] Guye Peak - South Gully 03/08/2020

[mrice1225]

Trip: Guye Peak - South Gully

Trip Date: 03/08/2020

Trip Report:

 

Parked at summit west and left the car around 7am, heading up the road towards the Sahale Ski club. We walked up the ski area (or whatever that place is) and headed towards the south side of Guye. We didn't traverse quite far enough east before starting to climb, but it worked out as we ended up meeting with the gully. At the first step a hundred feet or so up the gully we roped up, and then climbed the gully in three pitches including some simulclimbing. The gully is in excellent shape - most of the snow is hard and compact and there are great sticks to be found everywhere. The amount of snow right now hides most of the difficulties including the chock stone. 

At the end of the gully we traversed to the right out of the gully onto a face, where we then climbed steep and sometimes unconsolidated snow trending up and left back into the very top of the gully. Another team took a left variation at the end of the gully, which apparently goes as well. 

Got to the top of the south summit at noon and traversed the ridge towards the north summit, doing a single rope (60m) rappel from the tree on the middle summit and climbing back up steep snow to the north summit.  The route down commonwealth basin is well defined and leads back to the highway underpass. Back at the car at 3pm. 

 

Gear Notes:
Small cams, nuts, knifeblade pitons, picket

Approach Notes:
Snowshoes

Edited March 9, 2020 by mrice1225