Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
erichardson

[TR] Mt Hood - NF right gully (IV, AI3+, 50-55 degrees) 04/20/2019

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Trip: Mt Hood - NF right gully (IV, AI3+, 50-55 degrees)

Trip Date: 04/20/2019

Trip Report:

 

Noah Kimmes, Ben Luedtke and I climbed the right gully on the north face of Mt Hood last Saturday. No issues to speak of on the approach. Glacier travel was very straight forward. We followed the left flank beneath the cliffs. There are a couple WI3-4 flows still in here if you feel like a warm up.

 

We crossed the bergshrund on the far right. Thin ice/crumbly mixed and a bit of overhung snow but it goes. Partially fell through the snow bridge. A short snow ramp above this leads to the first WI2 pitch which we simuled. Rock and ice fall hazard from the cliff face above to the right at this point. Middle snow slope was in great condition. Solo'd with solid boot steps and good sticks in the icier sections. Exit ice pitch at just below 11,000' went at WI3+. Ice was a bit thin and aerated but solid enough. Lots of features for feet. Good screws on the pitch but anchor was tough. Chopped through snice to thin ice for a stubby, got a decent 13 and a buried tool. Snow was a bit deeper from here to the saddle at Cathedral Spire (amazing position). More of the same booting to the top. Summit cornice was minor to nonexistent.

Super fun route! Definitely my new favorite on Hood. Full story forthcoming on erikofthemountain.com

Cheers!

5cc1e5a935da5_AppoachtotheEliotGlacier.JPG.7e00a59994d70898623d408c77bbc211.JPG

Approach to Eliot Glacier.

5cc1e5f5b2cb3_Noahleadinganicepitchontheapproach.JPG.a4b33888b5be1ec483f3c81be9025c30.JPG

Noah leading an ice pitch on the approach.

5cc1e5ee2189e_Crossingthebergshrund.JPG.ecd5259e29f527d00d106fbeabf57d63.JPG

Crossing the bergshrund.

5cc1e5f61aa39_StartofsnowafterWI2icepitch.JPG.abc3eb3f55948951d0c5c0a39931bb72.JPG

Snow right above the WI2 pitch.

5cc1e5ee7b1b7_Lookingdownmiddlesnowsection.JPG.aa3fbfb6fdf290a0a3c18cbcedae7d8c.JPG

A look down the middle snow section.

5cc1e5f535a5f_Lotsandlotsoffrontpointingwithepicviews.thumb.jpg.6e77a48643f13ca064bdb2b40f2373e8.jpg

Lots and lots of front pointing with epic views.

5cc1e5fad908d_Upperpartofcentersteepsnowsection.JPG.033c1c660f7ac5c1517858a20c096af5.JPG

The upper part of the center snow section.

5cc1e5fa58bcb_Uppericepitch.JPG.9dbcee75d3036435c8a175f41a5856f3.JPG

The upper ice pitch.

5cc1e5f9d96f8_Thecrew.JPG.f7c8a335ab98bf05cec3fa63c2fce756.JPG

The crew!

5cc1e5edb09a5_CathedralSpirefromnearthesummit.JPG.18e061410b37d31dac96d9671c9dda56.JPG

Cathedral spire from near the summit.

5cc1e5f95826e_Summitblock.thumb.JPG.4aec702e7f69d80ede52c3245df4016b.JPG

The summit block.

Gear Notes:
What we used: 1/10, 4/13cm screws & 1 picket (tool belays most effective) What we brought: 1/10cm, 4/13cm, 2/17cm, 0.4, 0.5, a few nuts & 2 pickets

Approach Notes:
Left TH at 3:00am. We could skin from the gate but had to boot a couple dirt sections.

Edited by erichardson
  • Like 2
  • Rawk on! 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×