[TR] Diamond Peak, Oregon - Pioneer Gulch 12/10/2017

[Ax Man]

Trip: Diamond Peak, Oregon - Pioneer Gulch

Trip Date: 12/10/2017

Trip Report:

My work weekend was pleasantly interrupted by an invite to try Diamond Peak on Saturday.  I, being the goodie-two-shoes, still had a stockpile of unused sick pay (thank you Kate Brown) and called in with low-altitude Edema; the only cure being a sharp increase in elevation.

We were hoping for good snow, so we brought the snowboards with us.  The road to Pioneer Gulch trailhead had some moderate coverage but we made it to the trail head with no problems.

 

Once into the forest, the snow disappeared until about 6500ft, so we had to bear the full weight of the snowshoes, crampons, and snowboards on our backs.  There was a crazy temperature inversion, so it was T-shirt Weather up until about 7500ft.  I only brought 64oz of water, so I was constantly packing my half full water bottles up with snow.

Finally hit some snow on the North side of a ridge.

Trees started thinning out and the snow was like spring conditions.  We tried pulling the snowshoes off and went about 10 feet before punching through some meltout around some boulders, so back on they went.

Almost to the summit ridge - Looking South at Thielsen.

Manny packing up the ridge.

We ditched the snowboards just below the summit ridge, and switched over to crampons.  There was more ice and crusty stuff, so we definitely were glad we brought the spikes.

Summit! Looking North at Hood, Jefferson, the 3 Sisters, Bachelor, and Willamette Pass.

Heading back down the ridge.

Sun starting to set, snowboards out, and Joe with his 9000 lb pack.

Finally hit the flats, so no more snowboarding.

Final mile in the dark.  Left the car at 7:30am, back to the car at 5:20pm.  We went slow, but we blame that on the conditions and the weight of all the gear with the snowboards.  Overall it was great day to be on the mountain.  This was my first fall/winter climb and felt more like spring.

Gear Notes:
Snowshoes needed from 6500ft to the summit ridge, but hit bands of bare rock. Put some new scratches in my Lightning Ascents. Crampons used once we got to the summit ridge. Snowboards to increase descent speed only worked for 1.5 miles until snow was too thin to continue. Hit several rocks that were hiding just under the surface.

Approach Notes:
Dirt trail for the first 1.5 miles, patchy snow afterwords.

[olyclimber]

Looks fun!

[caverpilot]

Wow, dismal snow conditions! I love that mountain, especially when it isn't guarded by legendary mosquitoes!!! I've skied most western aspects, but now forgo the trail for 'schwacking straight up the ridge, which avoids the flats and allows one to ride all the way back to the car, yes, even on snowboards! Attached is a general route; if you're able to go by Corrigon Lake it adds some sweet scenery! Cheers and thanks for posting!! 

Diamond Ascent Route

 

 

 

Edited January 24, 2018 by caverpilot