joe_catellani

I suspect the reason those 3 registers haven't been removed is the NCNP rangers didn't climb those peaks. Mike Gauthier might not know anything about this as it is a North Cascades NP issue, not an issue elsewhere(ie Rainier).

one rope is enough. if you downclimb a fair amount only 2 raps necessary

pic link didn't work in original, another try

Building on the "Rangers Lie" thread, I've heard from reliable sources that it was (and still is?) NCNP policy to have climbing rangers remove (ie toss off) summit registers because they are "installations not in keeping with wilderness". I think the tradition of summit registers should be kept as it preceded creation of NCNP. Just as plane landing are allowed in Denali NP because they historically preceded creation of the park, so should the tradition of summit registers be allowed to continue. Is there anyone out there with a legal background that would like to pursue this, ie get a judge's order that the park can't destroy summit registers? It's kind of a little brother to book burning.

Mt Berge is NW of Buck Mt in the Chiwawa River area. On 6-23-93 Garth Ferber and I gained the crest of the east arete just west of the twin towers from the north. We climbed 17 mostly mid 5th class pitches near the crest. Probably many ways to go, the first third of our climb was usually half a rope length below the crest on the south, then generally on the crest or very close. To avoid a bivy we did not climb the entire arete-instead we traversed west on a ledge and climbed a snow gully to the summit. there might be another 4 pitches to complete the arete. 16 hrs RT from a camp at 5800' on Cleator's east ridge. IV 5.7 ? The approach is up Buck Creek trail about 5 miles,then the trail descends slightly for 100 yards to 4240' in timbered area. Cross Buck Creek and ascend the wooded east ridge of Mt Cleator initially on game trails on the north side then a good trail on the crest. At 5800' descend a little to the south and contour the basin. High Pass, west route on Mt berge, and Mt Cleator can be reached by continuing up the basin. I found the rock quality and the area's scenery to be good enough to come back a month later with Gordy Skoog and climb the east face. Because a schrund blocked access to the right slanting ramp across the face two 5.8 pitches on the wall to the right were climbed. The ramp consisted of 700' of clean slabs (class 3 to 5.0)with little opportunity for pro until directly below the summit. II 5.8 Include small pro including TCU's. The Berge affair continued into 1994 when Garth and I came back and climbed the twin towers, calling them Buson and Basho after the Zen poets. Each has one 70-80' pitch up to 5.8 from the notch between them, best reached from the south. bring small tcu's. I'd like to hear from anybody who repeats the Zen arete , particullarly if they finish the complete arete. PS you can bail to the south with only one rope. [This message has been edited by cascadeclimbers (edited 06-22-2001).]

I was there (in first of 5 parties) that was on the route on saturday. seemed like each party was doing it in 2 to 2 1/2 hrs. you can walk off the backside after doing one 50' rap off a tree, this makes a lot more sense than rapping down while other parties are coming up. its a good fun route.

here's an opportunity to give feedback on Denali climbing permits and fees. Mike Gauthier was a climbing ranger at Rainier (and I heard an ok guy) so your comments may actually accomplish something. III. DENALI RESCUE-COST STUDY --------------------------------------------------------------- A study now being completed by the National Park Service at Denali National Park in Alaska has not received much attention from climbers - but it should. The study could result in new and higher climbing fees and mandatory costs to individual climbers for rescues. The proposed changes would have a severe effect on the climbing experience and access to climbing areas at Denali. Last fall Congress passed a law requiring the Department of the Interior to study the "suitability and feasibility" of recovering the costs of high altitude rescues on Mount McKinley (Denali). The law demands a final report to Congress by August 2001. The study will examine whether climbers should be required to provide proof of medical insurance prior to being issued a climbing permit, and whether the current climbing fees at Denali should be raised. The Access Fund objected to the passage of this law, authored by Senator Frank Murkowski (R-AK). Murkowski has been trying to make climbers pay for the costs of their rescues since 1992, when a record thirteen climbers lost their lives on McKinley and the National Park Service spent $431,000 on rescues and body recoveries. In response to fatalities in 1992, the Park Service made several changes in climbing policy at Denali: the park began to charge climbers $150 to attempt Mounts McKinley and Foraker; climbers were required to register for a permit at least 60 days prior to their visit; and the park started an aggressive climber education program. These changes appear to have made a difference. Between 1991 and 1995, the average number of climber rescues per year at Denali was sixteen. Since 1995, the average dropped to about 11 major search and rescue missions per year, with an average of two climbing fatalities per year. In 2000, 13 major climber rescues cost the park $73,137. In February 2001, the Park Service initiated the rescue cost recovery study. The Access Fund responded by stating we would oppose any policy requiring climbers to pay for their rescue costs, unless it applied equally to all park visitors. The Access Fund does not suggest that the costs of rescuing climbers at Denali and elsewhere are insignificant or should be ignored. However, it is unfair to expect climbers to pay for rescues and not expect the same from hikers, swimmers, and people who feed wildlife. Rescues of these types of visitors cost the Park Service much more than what the agency spends on climber rescues. It is official Park Service policy to undertake, if possible, rescues of visitors in distress. The Access Fund proposes that if the agency is going to rescue any visitors in distress, the NPS should find alternatives to reduce rescue costs before singling out climber rescues. These methods could include: -Reduction or elimination of administrative (government) services; -Allowing visitors to sign a "no rescue" waiver instead of paying a fee; -Terminating the $250,000 annual contract for a special, high-altitude helicopter at Denali. Climbing program costs at Denali (which includes climber rescue costs) should be compared to the costs of supporting other types of recreational uses. The Access Fund will actively oppose the adoption of new fees, insurance requirements, and rescue cost recovery efforts for climbers until other non-discriminatory strategies have been tested and proven ineffective. To comment on the Denali rescue cost recovery study, write Denali National Park, Attn. Mike Gauthier, PO Box 588, Talkeetna, AK 99676, or email mailto:mike_gauthier@nps.gov. Also, check the Access Fund web site at http:www.accessfund.org or the Denali National Park Service site http://www.nps.gov/dena/ for updates on this issue and advice on how to contact Congress.

I've heard of people going up depot creek in april or may to ski, in fact it's listed in John Baldwin's ski guide to the Coast range as a trip. a potential problem is the road around Chilliwack Lake is often rough or trashed every winter by weather, you may not be able to drive it very far. check with BC provincial parks re: road status. if it's too warm you'll have a interesting problem with the waterfall!

"Pushing the Limits, the story of Canadian Mountaineering" is something like "Climbing in North America" by Chris Jones, on steroids. Its coffee table size book on Canadian mountaineering with hundreds of pics. Covers early days to modern hard core routes. if you're into climbing in canada this book is very inspiring. The Mountaineers Bookstore and Chessler Books are selling it for about $40, Amazon tries to rip you for $65. Chessler has a no question return policy, including return postage back. check it out!

see Dallas Kloke's book "One Day winter Climbs" 168 pgs of ideas book report on B board.

I've climbed the left variation start to Chair's NE butt, a couple times over the years. the ice was much fatter in March (w/ Brian sullivan) and thinner in dec (w/ silas wild) (different years) not much pro. I've heard of others climbing this (even soloing) when ice is thick....it happens, but not looking like it this year. both times we connected to the snowfield, pins for pro)

whoops! too much Jack last night. Bivouac is spelled BIVOUAC !

Bivoac.com's Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia has hundreds of BC (and elsewhere in canada) trip reports. check it out!

Skip Edmonds and I climbed this excellent route in late august '00. It's an extension and variation of the old Rubber Soul route and very well described in Jim Nelon's Selected Climbs Vol 2. I'm generally not a big fan of friction climbs but I liked it better than Dreamer because it's longer, better protected, and more varied. No rope eating cracks either. The rubber soul pitch (#4) has neat fingerlocks. We used TCU's 00 to #4 and .75 to #2 camalots, and 2 1/2 and 3 Friends. (5 pieces 2 to 2 1/2 on pitch 4) we had wired nuts along but never used them. a nut tool may be handy for a little extra crack cleaning. In Nelson's guide pg 240 the letters(route names) A and B are switched. Great trail to base of climb, my thanks to whoever brushed it out. The upper 4 pitches are in "almost first ascent condition" ie a fair amount of dirt and moss. this should improve with traffic. no brush though. 10 hours car to car.

Dallas Kloke has self published a 168pg book of 1 day winter climbs in western cascades. Lots of good ideas and and the vast majority won't be anywhere near the zoo scene you see at Chair Pk! Many are none technical, you can do those when the avy danger is up a bit (usually!) Good access info, route info is often a bit thin, what a good opportunity to develop your route finding skill and judgement! Hey for only 10 bucks, including mailing! Trust me! I have the 2nd edition and the 3rd may be out. send a $10 check to him at 4012 M ave Anacortes Wa 98221

I climbed upper Yocum Ridge in mid march 1983 with Mark Bebie. Fred Beckey made the first ascent in april(see Challenge of the North Cascades). We got on the ridge crest above the 3rd gendarme because it had too much rock showing. the 3rd gendarme is on the cover of J wickwire's book "addicted to danger" you don't necessarily need real cold conditions, just well frozen, and the more snow/ice the better as the rock is really rank. Since it's at fairly high elevation and west facing it stayed well frozen for us in march the entire climb. We were there in a clear period after a warm stormy period which plastered the climb beautifully, and the glop froze up good. This is the kind of conditions you want as pro is very hard to come by. The better pro was usually the rope running over natural features and your buddie's body weight. We did get a few good screws in in places but usually had to do a lot of chopping away the rime to get to good ice, and even then it often bottomed out. The beauty of the rime feathers is outstanding, but this climb demands boldness. Climbing up the south side of the ridge to reach the crest had a little bit of mixed at the start but we running belayed to the crest, including thru a snow/ice tube, like I've heard about climbing rime formations in Patagonia. The ridge crest climbing was spectacular, 2 tool self belay/buddies bod and rope was only realistic pro. We went quite close to the crest at the big step,(on the south side) much higher that the route line shown in Thomas's book. This was the crux, stemming a crap rock with good but thin ice dihedral, no intermediate pro altho we had a good 2 screw belay.One of the scariest 25 feet I've dealt with in 25yrs in the mountains. I top belayed Mark with a body belay from over the north side of the crest. rope trenching here would have held a following fall. From there it was cake to the top. A very esthetic,beautiful, but scary climb. I've gone back to Hood in winter because the rime experience is sooo cool.(more moderate stuff) "poor man's Patagonia". Hood can be done in a weekend from Seattle. tools with longish picks get thru the rime better to the harder ice below. also 60cm straight tools are prefered because you may do a lot of climbing on shafts.